Anti-Aging Skin Treatments for the Neck and Chest

The face, neck and décolleté are exposed to the sun, wind and cold weather, and must be all cared for in the same way as the face during the professional treatment and at home. The delicate neck and décolleté area is often ignored when it comes to application of moisturizers and sunscreen, and is easily susceptible to dehydration and sun damage. The signs of aging in the neck area are a result of our muscles losing elasticity, so along with a proper skincare regime, we have to learn to firm and tone the muscles to hold the skin tightly. As we age, the neck and jowls may start to show horizontal wrinkles and folds and begin to droop because of the daily gravitational pull, and slowing down of collagen production. This, of course causes the face to look much older than it may look otherwise. Also, genetics play a big role in the way our skin looks in that area. While many women take very good care of the skin on their face, the neck and chest often reveal their true age. 

SIGNS OF AGING ON NECK AND DÉCOLLETÉ 

Because the skin on the neck and décolleté is thinner and less elastic than skin in other areas, it’s more susceptible to environmental damage, which is compounded by the fact that this area is much more likely to be neglected and unprotected. The most common types of skin problems that are seen on the neck and chest are hyperpigmentation (brown spots), wrinkles, crinkliness, horizontal “necklace lines”, redness, blotchiness, elastosis, and skin tags. More complicated issues such as cutis rhomboidalis nuchae (leathery deep wrinkling on the back of the neck), and poikiloderma of Civatte (usually affects the front and sides of the neck in mostly fair-skinned clients) both result from long-term sun damage, are benign, and require gentle care. The skin on the neck is definitely different than that on the face, and if not well taken care of, will create unattractive disharmony that many women are self-conscious about. 

SPECIALIZED SPA TREATMENTS 

There is a variety of different anti-aging neck and décolleté treatments that can be done in the spa to address these issues above. Most clients will require a series of treatments to see results, so it is advised to suggest a package deal of 3 – 6 treatments. Treatments range from the most basic enzyme exfoliation, to laser rejuvenation, and prices can be set according to your area. 

Exfoliation 

To achieve a lifting effect, estheticians should start the cleansing and exfoliation routine upwards from the décolleté and continue to the face. Enzymes are a wonderful way to safely exfoliate the skin - this has been my favorite method for years! An enzymatic exfoliation is a good natural way to clean out the pores, get rid of excess oils, slough off the dry and dead skin for a healthy cell turnover. Fruit enzymes, such as Bromelain (from pineapple) and Papain (from papaya) eat away at the oils and dry skin, to expose a refreshed, clear complexion. Enzyme masks are generally more gentle and more safe than acids, and don’t thin the skin like Retin-A. A good natural enzyme mask brightens the skin, activates cellular function, increases circulation, fades discoloration and leaves the skin feeling and looking fresh, smooth and healthy. Dry enzyme masks that are activated moments before application are more potent, and have a longer shelf-life than pre-activated gel-like masks. This type of facial exfoliant usually comes in the form of a mask based on marine clay, bentonite, or oats. This is my favorite type of enzyme mask, because it’s more gentle than an enzyme peel, which generally contain 10% to 30% AHA, and is not suited for everyone. An example of such a product would be a pumpkin peel. It is quite strong, so it’s not always recommended for the thin skin on the chest. Just like a chemical peel, please administer an enzyme peel with caution, making sure your client is a good candidate for the product. Some menopausal clients may experience redness and sensitivity on the décolleté, so it's better to hold off on the deep exfoliation. The average time needed for enzymes to do their job is 7-10 minutes, this treatment can be repeated once in 3 weeks, and can be added to any basic facial for as little as $20. 

Mask 

Pure collagen masks are the perfect hydrating and anti-aging treatment for the neck and chest. Décolleté products should not be too harsh, since the skin is thin in that area. It's also preferable to have fragrance-free, hypoallergenic products, to avoid any reaction. For the best results, choose German masks which are made from the highest quality medical-grade freeze-dried insoluble collagen fibers. These masks come dry, are soaked with an activator solution, and then molded to the face for 20 minutes. This specialized facial not only provides a tightening of the skin, but moisturizes, plumps, and reduces wrinkles for up to 3 weeks. Ideally, clients are encouraged to return for a facial once every 3-4 weeks, and the average cost is $150-$180 for an hour – hour and a half facial. 

Photorejuvenation 

An IPL laser (Intense pulsed light) usually gives good results for diminishing redness, fresh hyperpigmentation, and stimulating mild collagen growth. A series of 6 is recommended, and the cost is usually around $500 per treatment.. Like all laser treatments, it’s best to do this in the winter time, and the client will need maintenance treatments when brown spots reappear, usually once or twice a year. 

Fractional lasers are newer and also treat wrinkles and post-acne scars. The non-ablative fractional lasers, like the Fraxel, may cost as much as $5000 for 6 treatments, and have a two day down-time. This laser will take two to six months to give the best results. Ablative fractional lasers, like the Active FX, have a four to eight day down-time day downtime and give a better result for the crinkly areas on the neck. The cost of this procedure is usually $1,000-$2,000 per treatment, and a series of 4 is recommended over a six month time span. I like to stay safe, and don’t work over the thyroid or the breasts with mechanical equipment to avoid stimulation of the lymphatic system. 

HOME CARE 

At home, one should cleanse that whole area with cleanser daily, and exfoliate with an enzyme mask once in three days. This is the only way to achieve an even transition in color and texture from the bust to the face. Moisturizer, as well as sunscreen should always be applied, to prevent sun damage and wrinkles. I am a true believer in peptides, and the best combination that I have found to work well against wrinkles on the face and neck has been Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline®) with Matrixyl ™3000. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline®) improves wrinkle depth, wrinkle volume and roughness. Matrixyl ™3000 minimizes crow’s feet and laugh lines, and prevents from further damage and wrinkle formation.Usually, peptides are best absorbable when used in a water-based serum, with the addition of low-molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid. 

This is the formulation behind SAIAN Active Renewal Serum. Ingredients are listed on the label starting with the most prevalent to the least prevalent. It is important to choose a product which is water-based, and has peptides in the beginning of the ingredient list – this way you can be assured of the amount of peptides in the formula. You may also consult the manufacturer, and ask what percentage of a given peptide is used. Usually, 10% of each peptide is sufficient to give great results, if there is a blend of 3 or 4 peptides in a formula. Avoid peptide combinations that are mixed with hydroquinone, parabens, and other toxins that can irritate the skin. 

EXERCISE 

One of the reasons for wrinkles on the neck and bust is gravitational pull, and often sleeping on high pillows and sleeping on the side can cause lines and wrinkles between the breasts and on the neck. Reversing the gravitational pull can be done by wearing a neck bandage or a compression garment for the face. This mechanical mode of lifting the neck, and resisting the gravitational pull works well when the client is doing housework or sleeping. The best way to prevent sagging, and to reduce preexisting damage is to do simple exercises that tone the muscles. Clients typically see results within the first month of consistent exercises. To target the “turkey neck”, the muscle which needs to be focused on is the platysma. The platysma muscle arises from the pectoral and deltoid muscles and rises over the clavicle, proceeding upward in a slanting manner along the sides of the neck. This group of muscles holds the neck and jaw line upward in youth but may separate during the normal aging process, leading to a drooping chin, sagging jawline and loose skin under the chin. 

The easiest exercise to tone this muscle is “kissing the ceiling”. Tilting the head up, extending the lips, as if kissing the ceiling. It’s advised to do 3 rounds of 20 reps each day for a toned neck. I hope my advice was helpful to better understand the variety of treatments for the neck and décolleté. All systems work well for different people, so the key is finding a balance. There is no need to incorporate all the items I list in the article to achieve amazing results, but I am confident that trying some of these treatments, products, machines, and exercises will greatly benefit your clients!

Targeted Topical Therapy for Rosacea and Post-Procedure Bruising with SAIAN® Vital-K™ Creme

We all know that aloe vera is soothing and cooling, and chamomile is relaxing, but did you know about Arnica? This amazing medicinal herb has been taken internally in Europe for centuries to heal organ trauma, and applied topically to reduce swelling, treat bruises, wounds and bug bites. It has anti-inflammatory properties, and is mild and non-agressive in topical skin care products. What is really amazing, is Arnica's ability to reduce bruising - the mechanism in lies in the herb's ability to stimulate blood flow and move stagnation through the veins and capillaries. When a lesion of capillaries is traumatized by physical impact, or inflamed from exposure to the harsh elements, we see the dark color on the skin's surface. Applying an Arnica creme to the area significantly reduces the swelling and dark patch, and brings the color back to normal, as well as moves blood through the damaged capillaries for reduced discomfort and pain.

We recommend SAIAN® Vital-K™ Creme - the most-effective paraben-free topical creme which works wonders on postoperative bruising following cosmetic surgery or injections, rosacea, dark circles, and hyperpigmentation. 

Bruising and dark spots are the appearance of blood which has been released from the tiny capillaries of the battered area into the tissue under the skin. Over time the color eventually fades as the blood is absorbed back into the body and away from the surface. To halt the expansion and deepening of unsightly discoloration, we use Phytonadione (Vitamin K). This is the body's natural blood coagulating agent which stops the spread of blood from seeping further. Individuals with low levels of Vitamin K will often experience wider and darker bruises, taking excessively long periods of time to recover because is not enough Vitamin K in their systems to prevent this from occurring. Not only is this creme perfect for post-surgical and injection-site bruising, but also ideal for cuperose, rosacea, and dark under-eye circles.

SAIAN® Vital-K™ Creme provides a powerful dose of Vitamin K to repair the damaged area, supplying your skin with the means to halt the flow of bruising and pause discoloration. To maximize and quicken the recovery process, we use Arnica. This natural herb, rich with anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties is a highly efficient vasodilator of blood capillaries. Arnica drastically increases the fade back time, by escalating the recession of blood away from the damaged capillaries and back into the body. This helps return your skin to a flush and even color in a fraction of the time it would usually take. The mechanism lies in the herb's ability to stimulate blood flow and move stagnation through the veins and capillaries. When a lesion of capillaries is traumatized by physical impact, or inflamed from exposure to the harsh elements, we see the dark color on the skin's surface. Applying SAIAN® Vital-K™ Creme to the area significantly reduces the swelling and dark patch, and brings the color back to normal, as well as moves blood through the damaged capillaries for reduced discomfort and pain.

By combining these two powerful ingredients in a natural, paraben-free product, SAIAN® Vital-K™ Creme speeds up the color neutralization process and restores your skin in just a few daily applications! For best results, apply this creme to the affected area twice daily. This creme works best for under-eye dark circles when applied on top of SAIAN® Clinical Strength Under- Eye Serum.

Sanitation and Infection Control When Waxing

I am glad that you enjoyed my previous blog post on sanitation in the workplace for Estheticians, and would like to expand upon that topic now with some insights about waxing. Sanitation and infection-control are some of the first things we all learn in beauty school, and for good reason! It is crucial to have an understanding of the different kinds of infections you may come across, in order to protect yourself and the client. Clients rely on our knowledge and professionalism, and trust us with their health, so we must abide the law, and give them the best treatment without taking any shortcuts.With that said, spa and salon workers must be aware of contagious bacteria, fungi, parasites and viruses that can be contracted through broken skin, and pose serious health risks. Not only should we treat all clients with care to avoid getting them sick, but we must also protect ourselves in the workplace. Since the body’s first line of defense is unbroken skin, take care of your hands - they are your tools, so don’t bite your fingers, or pull on your cuticles. Keep your nails short, to avoid scratching the clients face, or breaking and snagging a nail by accident.

A very important service that must be performed with utmost care is waxing, and no matter what anyone else tells you, gloves are essential any time during contact with a client's blood, bodily fluids, secretions, excretions, non-intact skin, and mucous membrane. You must assume that all blood and bodily fluids are potential sources of infection. It is especially important to wear gloves when performing Brazilian/bikini waxing when the follicles are left open and can bleed, especially because that area has thick, coarse hair. In addition to any unknown blood-borne pathogens that may be transmitted via open pores, there is possibility of contracting herpes through broken skin, if you have any cuts/ broken lesions on your fingers, and don’t wear gloves.

Correct use of spatulas is very important during waxing. Be aware that hairs, as well as dry, dead skin may get into the wax container if you double-dip, so don’t keep using the same spatula throughout the service. The wooden tongue-depressors we use for waxing cost pennies, if even that! They are meant to be 100% disposable after ONE time use, so don’t double-dip - just toss it out and use a new one.

Make cleanup easy after waxing by using a disposable roll of waxing paper (just like you would see at your doctor’s office) over your sheets. Not only will it save your sheets from sticky wax, but it will give your clients the assurance that they are laying on a 100% clean surface.

Microcurrent FAQ

A couple of weeks ago, I shared some valuable information about microcurrent devices, and their use in professional aesthetics. Today, I'd like to expand upon this topic, and thoroughly explain the best modes of marketing and promoting your new Non-Surgical Face-Lift treatment!

As you know, we are living in a day and age where everyone seeks instant gratification, and this amazing facial procedure is sure to give your clients the immediate and cumulative results they are looking for! 

MICROCURRENT FAQ:

-What's some of the most effective language a spa pro could use to summarize your machine's complex, high-tech offerings on a spa service menu (or any other printed collateral)?
Clients want to know the end result of this treatment, so calling this a microcurrent non-surgical face-lift is the most effective way to put it on the menu! Your clientele will be excited to read that this treatment tightens the skin, reduces the appearance of wrinkles, tones and firms the muscles, and gives the face a younger, more lifted appearance!

-What are some effective ways a spa owner could market these offerings?
The best, and most convincing way to market a microcurrent treatment, is with before and after images of the clients who have had it. The results speak for themselves!

-Who should the target client be? 

The ideal client for a microcurrent procedure is anyone over the age of 21, who may be concerned with wrinkles, loss of skin tone, muscle tone and elasticity, as well as clients complaining of an overall droopy appearance - sagging jowls, flat cheekbones, and pronounced nasolabial folds.



-Since serial treatment is often advised, do you have any tips for getting clients to re-book services?
A series of 6 treatments, spaced about 2-3 weeks apart is ideal. The best way to promote this package, is by giving a discount when the client pays upfront. You may also consider counting the 6th treatment as complimentary, when 5 are purchased upfront at regular price.

-Any other tips spa pros could use to get the word out about your device?
Since this microcurrent non-surgical face-lift is ideal before special events, it is a great idea to network with make-up artists, to coordinate providing services before weddings, parties, and photo-shoots. Another great way to promote the service is to place your flyers at photo-studios, hair salons, and at bridal shops.

-What are the best ways to educate spa pros on how to perform services using your device?
The best way to master this treatment is by taking a workshop class from the device manufacturer. Many companies offer free classes at trade-shows, as well as group demos at their headquarters. Personally, I am an avid advocate of trying everything on myself, before putting it on the spa menu for my clientele. This way you will be familiar with the sensation of the machine, and experience its benefits first hand!

Let's Talk About Discoloration

Many women deal with the unsightly issue of dark spots/hyperpigmentation on their face and hands. I like to believe that with the right care, these spots can be diminished, and even dissipate for good! As we know, discoloration is a common result of sun damage caused by tanning, and opting not to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen. Sometimes, the sun's rays bring up melanin to the surface after laser hair removal treatments, chemical peels, or prolonged birth control use. The good news, is that discoloration and hyperpigmentation may still be treated effectively if it is fresher than 5 years!

Now, you will probably wonder how in the world to select a great product - there are so many on the market! Presently, the professional skin care industry is finally making the move from the traditional hydroquinone brighteners towards a more natural, non-toxic, and non-habit-forming ingredients.What product to use, and how to make a good choice? The most effective products on the market that address the issue of discoloration and hyperpigmentation are: Kojic acid -as an exfoliator, and Tyrostatine, and Alpha Arbutin as active whitening agents in leave-on serums, and creams. These are the ingredients used in the SAIAN Antihyperpigmentation complex.

Of course, it needs to be noted that the best season for these brightening treatments is winter, because the client needs to avoid excessive sunlight, and tanning. Furthermore, the exfoliation needs to be done in the evening, only. Since this issue requires daily attention, don't expect to see immediate results- typically, a cycle of 28 days is needed to document substantial changes in the discoloration patches!

3 Wintertime Skincare Treatments to Get TODAY!

Many women suffer from skin problems, varicose veins, and unsightly hair, but are unsure when the best time is to get treatments. Here are 3 treatments to get today, while we are still in the cold, winter months:

1) Sclerotherapy (Varicose Vein Treatment)

Varicose veins are a big issue for women of all ages, but are more prominent after pregnancy, and with age.  In fact, by the age of 50, 2 out of 3 American women have to deal with them! These veins are characterized by their puffed purple appearance, and can swell up, causing discomfort. For the most part, women opt for sclerotherapy merely because of its cosmetic benefits. Although in the past, the best treatment for varicose veins was surgery, image-guided injection with depressurization is now effective in even the most difficult cases. I advise this treatment to be performed in the wintertime because the patient is required to wear compression panty-hose post-treatment. Winter is the perfect time to wear these stockings, because they tend to be so hot, and uncomfortable in the summer months! Especially in California!

2) Laser Hair Removal

How does getting rid of that unsightly leg fuzz sound? If you are ready to commit to a package of 6 to 12 treatments with a laser, forget about tanning for the entire duration of the treatment. Laser hair removal is typically performed in intervals of 4 to 5 weeks, so a package of 6 will take you months to complete. Keep it safe, and save the hair removal for winter, and even then, don't forget your sunscreen!

3) Hyperpigmentation/ Melasma Treatment

As an experienced esthetician, I always advise patients to wait until winter for skin-lightening treatments. Hyperpigmentation treatments typically expose the skin, and exfoliate it, making it susceptible to more sun-exposure, and further damage, so it's best to wait until winter to whiten and brighten!