SAIAN Acne Facial Procedure

Become a superstar at treating acne by following this easy step-by-step treatment protocol:

1.Before starting the treatment, prepare a pair of gloves, and 2 bowls of water - one warm, and one cool. Cleanse the face with SAIAN Active Cleanser. This foamy cleansing gel contains 10% Alpha Hydroxy Acid to kill germs and bacteria, seaweed extracts to nourish and strengthen capillary walls, and rosehip seed extract. Remove the cleanser with warm water thoroughly.

2. Saturate glycolic applicator swabs with SAIAN Salicylic Acid 2%, and gently buff the face upward from both sides until the client feels a light tingling. For your first time client, keep the Salicylic acid on the face for a maximum of 2 minutes. You may later increase the time as your client's tolerance increases. Remove SAIAN Salicylic acid with cool water after 1-2 minutes.

3. Mix a ½ teaspoon of SAIAN Enzyme Mask with warm water to make a soft paste. Apply SAIAN Enzyme Mask to the whole face for 10 minutes. Turn on the steam and the ozone, and point to the client's face, so the mask stays moist, and the enzymes are active. If you don't have a steamer, use a moist hot towel over the Enzyme mask to keep it from drying up. This mask is based on bentonite clay, oats, and pineapple enzymes, which exfoliate and cleanse out the pores. SAIAN Enzyme Mask is perfect before extractions. Remove SAIAN Enzyme Mask with warm water.

4. Perform Manual extraction. Change tissues often to prevent the spread of bacteria.

5. Use your SAIAN portable high-frequency machine over the blemished areas for 3-5 minutes. Before use don't forget to ask your client if she is pregnant or has a pacemaker. Our portable machine has 4 attachments and is great for a mobile spa business.

6. Apply a thin layer of SAIAN Active Rx Mask to overly oily and blemished areas for 15 minutes. SAIAN Active Rx Mask is based on bentonite clay, sulfur, camphor, magnesium, hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, and oxygen plasma. Wash off the Active Rx Mask with warm water.

7. Spray with SAIAN Herbal toner. It doesn't contain any alcohol or oil, and is a beautiful bouquet of herb extracts based on witch hazel and aloe.

8. Apply SAIAN Acne Spot Treatment. Don't shake the bottle, so that the sediment stays on the bottom and the liquid is on the top. Dip a q-tip to the bottom of Acne Spot Treatment, and apply only to blemishes. It contains minerals such as magnesium and iron which kill germs and bacteria without leaving discoloration. When finished, close the container tightly and throw away the q-tip. Do not double dip with the same q-tip into the container.

9. Take out your SAIAN cryo Globes from the freezer and wipe them dry to remove excess moisture. Use the Cryo-Globes to massage the face upward to close the pores and minimize redness.

10. The final step is to spray the client's face with SAIAN sunscreen mist SPF 29. This water-based sunscreen is perfect for all skin types, and contains no oil, no alcohol and no chemicals.

Suggested retail recommendations here: http://saian.net/product-category/categories/acneoily-skin/

Microbeads and The Environment

Have you heard about microbeads? If not, I'd like to educate you on these little plastic culprits, and make sure you stay away from face and body scrubs which list them as an active ingredient. 

1. What are plastic microbeads and why are they commonly found in skincare products?

Microbeads are tiny round plastic beads that are found in some exfoliating products, and they are causing quite a stir in the environmental world. The plastic waste caused by these microbeads, which are not filtered out during sewage treatment, is damaging water ecosystems and killing marine life. 

2. What are some negative effects of these plastic microbeads?

A 2013 research at the University of Wisconsin-Superior showed that there were 1,500 to 1.7 million plastic particles per square mile in the Great Lakes! Not only are the beads damaging to fish, they are also bad for your face - microbeads can cause eye irritation, and promote rosacea and couperose. It’s no wonder that Illinois was the first state to ban the use of microbeads in June of 2014, and I sincerely hope all other states will quickly follow.

3. What are some alternatives to these plastic microbeads and how are they better for the client and the environment?

Instead of using plastic beads, consider other natural options like scrubs with ground up seeds and stone pits from apricots/peaches, crushed walnut husks, oats, coffee grinds, salt, and sugar. I especially recommend sugar for clients dealing with eczema since it’s non irritating on broken skin, and sea salt for psoriasis sufferers, but not more than once a week. All other scrubs can be used 3 times a week, but not more - our skin needs adequate time to amass dry dead cells, and you definitely don’t want to over-exfoliate!

4. How can skincare companies make clients aware of the issue and the benefits of using products that contain safer plastic bead alternatives?

Companies can provide the full list of ingredients on their packaging, and encourage the use of natural, biodegradable ingredients with explanations in their ads. Educating the consumer is the best strategy for forming a long-term honest relationship!

Neck and Décolleté Treatments

I was recently interviewed by American Spa Magazine about neck and decollete treatments, and thought that it would be a wonderful idea to share my answers with you all! Here are some helpful tips on spa treatments, as well as home care.

1. What happens to the decollete area as people age and why is it so important to treat the decollete area?

The face, neck and décolleté are exposed to the sun, wind and cold weather, and must be all cared for in the same way as the face during the professional treatment and at home.The delicate neck and décolleté area is often ignored when it comes to application of moisturizers and sunscreen, and is easily susceptible to dehydration and sun damage. 

The signs of aging in the neck area is because our muscles lose elasticity – so we have to learn to firm and tone the muscles to hold the skin nice and tight. As we age, the neck and jowls may start to show horizontal wrinkles and folds and begin to droop because of the daily gravitational pull. This, of course causes the face to look much older than it may look otherwise. 

The reason for wrinkles on the neck and bust is often sleeping on high pillows, and sleeping on the side – causing lines and wrinkles between the breasts and on the neck.

2. How can skincare products and spa treatments help the decollete?

Most of us take very good care of our face, but often ignore the neck, décolleté and bust. Taking care of the neck and décolleté is no different than taking care of the face. To achieve a lifting effect, estheticians should start the cleansing and exfoliation routine upwards from the décolleté and continue to the face. At home, one should cleanse that whole area with cleanser daily, and exfoliate with scrub or enzyme mask once in three days. This is the only way to achieve an even transition in color and texture from the bust to the face. 

In addition to timely exfoliation, the neck should be protected from the harsh rays of the sun with clothing and sunscreen. The décolleté and neck must always be hydrated with a great moisturizer. 

3. What types of spa treatments are best for treating the decollete area?

Wonderful treatments for the décolleté include a light enzymatic exfoliation, massage, and a hydrating collagen mask. 

4. Can you offer any tips for spas on choosing decollete products? 

Décolleté products should not be too harsh, since the skin is thin in that area. It's also preferable to have fragrance-free, hypoallergenic products, to avoid any reaction. I dislike using mechanical equipment on the chest, or by the thyroid, to avoid stimulation of the lymphatic system.

5. Can you offer tips for spas on marketing decollete treatments and retail products?

The most convincing advertisement of products or treatments are before and after photos. Usually, a series of 6 treatments helps to achieve wonderful results, as well as the purchase of a home-use firming product, and lifting neck-bandage. Our company specializes in these bandages, and we sell many of them!

 6. Are there any spa clients that might not be a good fit for decollete treatments? If so, which ones?

Some menopausal clients may experience redness and sensitivity on the décolleté, so it's better to hold off on the deep exfoliation.

New YouTube tutorial about SAIAN Neck-Lift product.

New YouTube tutorial about SAIAN Neck-Lift product. 

The original and only SAIAN® Bio-Firming Neck Lift Kit™ is specifically formulated to firm and tone sagging skin, and reduce wrinkles in the neck and chin area. Tightens, stimulates cell circulation, removes toxins, melts away fat and inhibits the formation of fat deposits! The kit includes an extra potent Bio-Firming Neck Crème™, and a unique washable and reusable stretch neck band,which counteract the signs of aging in the neck, chin and décolleté. Natural, vegan, and paraben-free – it’s the perfect addition to anti-aging treatments. Apply Bio Firming Neck Crème to clean skin of the neck and chin 2-3 times daily, using upward motions. Wear the neck band as long as desired after crème application. Can be slept in. Wash the band with shampoo to restore adhering property.Paraben-free, fragrance-free. Neck band is latex-free.

Selecting The Right Cleanser For Your Skin Type

When it comes to skincare, selecting the right products can get very confusing, especially for the casual consumer. Choosing among a plethora of different types of cremes, serums, masks, scrubs and cleansers is easier once you get a consultation with your esthetician, but meanwhile, I trust that this simple blog entry FAQ will be helpful!

What’s the best product to use? A gel? A foam? A cream? Mousse? Milks? Washes?

There are many types of cleansers available on the market, and there is no one perfect product for all. Typically, older clients prefer milky cleansers, because they don’t strip the skin of natural oils, and moisturize as they clean. Younger clients may prefer a foamy cleanser, which makes the face feel “squeaky clean” and tight.

Should clients with different skin types use different formulas?

Different cleansers are made with ingredients added specifically to treat certain skin types. For example, aloe and chamomile are added to soothe sensitive skin, salicylic and AHA to treat oily, and acne-prone skin. A knowledgeable esthetician will gladly suggest the best cleanser for her client!

What are the signs that clients haven’t been cleansing properly at home?

Blackheads, whiteheads, and milia are tell-tale signs that the client hasn’t been cleansing properly at home. It is very important to always remove make-up before bed, and skipping this easy step can cause clogged pores, wrinkles, and blemishes.

Should clients ever do their own “deep cleanses”?

At-home experiments often lead to burned faces, scarring, and redness. It is best to leave the deep-cleanses to the professionals!

Alkaline Vegan Quinoa Recipe for Clearing your Complexion, and Boosting your Energy!

Meet my favorite summer creation - Dasha's Vegan Power Salad! Those of you who have taken an acne workshop with me know how much I stress the importance of alkalizing the body! It is a proven way to get rid of candida, and starving the yeast that can create a toxic environment in the gut, acidic bodily fluids, and acne-prone skin. The reason I call this a power salad, is because quinoa is so rich in protein, and so are black beans! Quinoa is a power-grain, because it is alkalizing, and easy to digest - it's a beautiful alternative to rice and porridge that is easy on the stomach, but has the ability to fill you up!

Today's recipe is a cold salad of organic boiled quinoa, with black beans, organic tomatoes, organic cucumbers and organic orange bell peppers. Tomatoes, beans, and orange bell peppers are not alkalizing, but cucumbers and quinoa are. If you are on a strict alkaline diet, substitute these ingredients with red bell peppers, zucchini, red onions, scallions, broccoli, cauliflower, cranberries, or haricot vert. I always try to change up the ingredients in my favorite salads, so if you're not on the strict candida plan, feel free to add avocado, boiled beets, pine nuts, raisins, fresh corn, garlic (yes!), ginger, or whatever else floats your boat! 

While the quinoa is cooling, I marinade my black beans in lemon juice and Barlean's flax seed oil, then I combine all ingredients an a big bowl, and add chopped cilantro, basil, and a pinch of salt! Quinoa is super easy to prepare! 1 cup of quinoa to 2 cups of water. Bring it to a boil, turn off the heat, and cover the pot for 15 minutes. Once 15 minutes have elapsed, take it out of the pot and cool in a separate bowl, or eat it hot - just like rice! Enjoy!

Ingredients (I use only organic ingredients):
1 cup quinoa (dry)
1 cup boiled black beans
1 large tomato
1 cucumber
1 orange bell-pepper
5-7 leaves of basil
1/4 bunch of parsley
juice of 1 lemon
1 tbs flax seed oil

Dealing with Negative Reviews

Having managed a spa for 8 years, I have had to read my share of positive and negative reviews of our technicians. Of course, the positive letters greatly outweighed the very few negative reviews, so I never doubted that the therapists were doing their job correctly. 

A person who has had a negative experience will become your greatest, most loyal customer if you take that bad experience, and turn it around! Offer your sincere apology, and offer them another treatment of their liking. Make them feel like you truly care about how they feel when they think of your spa/salon. Be vulnerable enough to ask for input, and kind enough to accept constructive criticism. Put yourself in the client's shoes, and think of how wonderful it feels to be treated like a fellow human being, and not just a number.

Sanitation and Infection Control for Skin Care Professionals

Sanitation and infection-control are some of the first things we all learn in beauty school, and for a good reason! It is crucial to have an understanding of the different kinds of infections you may come across, in order to protect yourself and the client. Clients rely on our knowledge and professionalism, and trust us with their health, so we must abide the law, and give them the best treatment without taking any shortcuts.

With that said, spa and salon workers must be aware of contagious bacteria, fungi, parasites and viruses that can be contracted through broken skin, and pose serious health risks. Not only should we treat all clients with care to avoid getting them sick, but we must also protect ourselves in the workplace. Since the body’s first line of defense is unbroken skin, take care of your hands - they are your tools, so don’t bite your fingers, or pull on your cuticles. Keep your nails short, to avoid scratching the clients face, or breaking and snagging a nail by accident.

Keeping your room ventilated and clean is extremely important, especially having clean sheets and towels, wiping down all surfaces, as well as keeping all equipment, and implements that come into direct contact with the client immaculate. Have a habit of doing laundry daily, because mold and fungus may grown on unwashed laundry that had been left in a laundry hamper.

I’d like to reinforce the difference between sanitizing, disinfecting and sterilizing. Understanding the basics of disinfecting, and following state laws will ensure that you're protected.

•     Sanitation (cleaning) is removing all visible dirt with soap and warm water, and using a brush to scrub grooved or hinged portions of implements.
•     Disinfection destroys most harmful organisms, but isn't effective against bacterial spores.
•     Sterilization completely destroys all microbial life, including spores. When disinfecting and sterilizing, make sure to take proper precautions, such as wearing gloves when touching the disinfectant solution, and to follow the instructions on the label. Disinfectant solution should be changed daily, or changed right away if it becomes contaminated.

As estheticians, we see many different clients daily, some with serious cystic acne. Over the years, I have noticed that treating acne is a passion of mine, and I can proudly say that I specialize in working with acne-prone skin. Personally, I don’t use any tools other than my fingers wrapped in tissues to perform [manual] extractions, and I always wear gloves when working on acneic skin.

Gloves are important every time you may come in contact with a client's blood, bodily fluids, secretions, excretions, non-intact skin, and mucous membrane. This is a standard precaution, where you must assume that all blood and bodily fluids are potential sources of infection, such as staph infection, MRSA (Methicillin-Resistant Staphylococcus Aureus infection caused by a strain of staph bacteria resistant to the antibiotics commonly used to treat ordinary staph infections), Hepatitis, and even HIV. I also use a magnifying lamp when performing extractions, so any excretions or puss which may accidentally spew out during the extraction process will not get on my face, or in my eye. If accidental exposure to blood or excretions occurs, you must stop the service, and perform the correct measures to clean and disinfect the broken skin area, clean and disinfect the workspace, and dispose all implements used. All tools that come into contact with blood or body fluids must be disinfected in a EPA

Sanitizing and disinfecting non-electrical tools and implements:

1. Wear protective glasses and gloves.
2. Rinse implements and thoroughly clean them with soap, a brush, and warm water.
3. Dry thoroughly with a clean towel or air dry on a clean towel.
4. Immerse implements in the disinfection container with an EPA registered hospital grade disinfectant that is  bactericidal, fungicidal and virucidal, for 10 minutes.
5. Remove implements with tongs or gloves, rinse well in warm water and pat dry.
6. Store in a clean, labeled, and covered container until needed.
7. Remove gloves and wash hands.

Clean electrical components that come in contact with clients (i.e. high-frequency electrodes) in the same manner as nonelectrical tools, but be sure not to immerse metal tips in water/disinfectant solution. Also, having an autoclave (equipment that sterilizes tools by using steam under pressure) in the spa/salon is very useful. 

registered tuberculocidal disinfectant (a disinfectant that kills HIV 1 and Hepatitis B virus).

Treating Elastosis in Post-Menapausal Skin

As women age, and go through menopause, they often find the skin of the face has lost tone, and has become flaccid. This is because of the loss of hyaluronic acid, and natural breakdown of collagen and elastin in the extrinsically-aged skin. Among the many factors that contribute to this are hormonal changes, dehydration, and exposure to sunlight and UV radiation (which we can observe from the age-spots on the patient’s face). In fact, elastosis is the primary consequence of photo-aged skin. When the patient pulls on the skin, it is unlikely to bounce back to its original place, and this shows the decreased elasticity.

For the patient experiencing elastosis, flaccid and inelastic skin is the result of years of UV exposure,and dehydration. Daily regimen has very much to do with the patient’s current condition. By over-exfoliating the skin regularly, but not moisturizing enough, she is pulling moisture out of the skin, which is already dehydrated. The patient needs to include hyaluronic-acid and peptide based serums and crèmes into her regimen, as well as avoid the sun, and remember to apply sunscreen every 2-3 hours.

Let's Talk About Discoloration

Many women deal with the unsightly issue of dark spots/hyperpigmentation on their face and hands. I like to believe that with the right care, these spots can be diminished, and even dissipate for good! As we know, discoloration is a common result of sun damage caused by tanning, and opting not to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen. Sometimes, the sun's rays bring up melanin to the surface after laser hair removal treatments, chemical peels, or prolonged birth control use. The good news, is that discoloration and hyperpigmentation may still be treated effectively if it is fresher than 5 years!

Now, you will probably wonder how in the world to select a great product - there are so many on the market! Presently, the professional skin care industry is finally making the move from the traditional hydroquinone brighteners towards a more natural, non-toxic, and non-habit-forming ingredients.What product to use, and how to make a good choice? The most effective products on the market that address the issue of discoloration and hyperpigmentation are: Kojic acid -as an exfoliator, and Tyrostatine, and Alpha Arbutin as active whitening agents in leave-on serums, and creams. These are the ingredients used in the SAIAN Antihyperpigmentation complex.

Of course, it needs to be noted that the best season for these brightening treatments is winter, because the client needs to avoid excessive sunlight, and tanning. Furthermore, the exfoliation needs to be done in the evening, only. Since this issue requires daily attention, don't expect to see immediate results- typically, a cycle of 28 days is needed to document substantial changes in the discoloration patches!

ACNE - Correct home treatment with clinical strength products.

Acne is one of the hardest skin problems to treat topically, so when we come across new products, we are often skeptical as to their effectiveness. The typical acne patient has tried "everything" on the market, starting from drugstore brands, to the infamous infomercial brands, to the expensive brands recommended by his or her dermatologist. 

The best clinical acne products are formulated with no chemicals, propylene glycols, parabens, and absolutely no benzoyl peroxide. When you read the facts on these popular ingredients, you will be shocked at how dangerous they can be, especially for the younger clients. Of course, it all depends on the percentage of the ingredient in the formula, but when you think about all the personal care products we use daily on our face and body - it all adds up to quite a bit.

On the other hand, you can choose an alternative to harsh chemical-filled skin care products, by using an all-natural, results-oriented clinical brand.When a client first comes to see his or her esthetician for an intensive SAIAN acne facial, he or she will see results right away - up to a 75% reduction of blemishes on the treated area after the first visit! The products in the SAIAN acne line contains only active ingredients to treat break-outs, kill germs and bacteria, and calm down inflammation. SAIAN is 100% vegan, with no artificial fragrance and no artificial color, and hypoallergenic.This is the perfect line for achieving the best results in the spa, and med-spa setting.

Let's not forget that all etheticians are like doctors for their clients-this is essentially how our line was developed. We wanted to give estheticians an easy and painless way to treat their clients in the treatment room, and also send them home with products to improve and maintain their skin between visits. To see real results, the acne clients HAS to purchase products, and do his or her homework daily! This is imperative for the client's well being, and will create a good relationship between client and esthetician. The best way to start the client on an at-home routine, is with the SAIAN Acne Try-Me Kit, which is affordable, and will last about 3 weeks. This product is based on Salicylic Acid, Bentonite Clay, Seaweed Extracts, Camphor, Sulphur, Magnesium, Iron Oxide, and Oxygen Plasma.  The results after only a couple of days of use are unbelievable! The blemishes are reduces, dried up, and the redness is gone. 

I often have professionals asking me this question: 

-"My client's acne is gone! Her skin looks amazing, but she feels dry! What is she supposed to do now?"

Good question. Well, think about it - when you get sick with the flu, you go to the store and buy medicine. Let's say you take the medicine every 4-6 hours for 2 days straight, and on the third day you wake up... and Ahhhh! What a relief! No runny nose, no headache, and you're not coughing anymore! Do you keep taking your flu medicine?

The same goes for clinical strength skin care products. When your client doesn't have a break-out, why use "medicine"? You should advise him or her to switch cleansers (SAIAN Strawberry Cleanser is a great foamy clenaser that won't dry out the skin) and use the SAIAN Acne Spot Treatment from the kit on any individual blemishes that may still have lingered. It is also a good idea to exfoliate 3 times a week with SAIAN Enzyme Mask, to get rid of any dry skin, and cleanse the pores. If he or she still feels dry - the best two moisturizers are SAIAN Amethyste Replenishing Creme and SAIAN Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum (DAYSPA Magazine's Editor's Choice for 2010)!

Reward Your Clients' Loyalty - Margarita Saian for SKIN DEEP Magazine March/April 2010 p.8

Look for this wonderful article by SAIAN founder Ms.Margarita Saian in this month's Skin Deep magazine on p8.

New Ways to Reward Clients 

Q. I used to send product samples home with my clients, but the economy has forced me to cut back. I’m not sure how to keep rewarding their loyalty. Ideas? 

A. Even in difficult times, you can make your clients happy on a small budget. First, try to work with companies that will supply you with promotional materials from time to time, such as brochures, DVDs, fliers, posters, and complimentary samples. Work with brands that will send representatives to your spa to do product demonstrations and presentations for your staff and clientele. Education is your best tool for retailing products and it builds brand confidence with your clients.

      A wonderful way to promote products without handing out complimentary samples is to have an event where your clients can sample products and bring their friends. To relax your guests, consider including free 15-minute massages by one of your spa’s therapists. The therapist can also invite his or her clientele to experience the skin care side of the event. Your invitations should mention coupons, drawings, massage, product testing, and snacks. Keep your budget in line by serving light veggie snacks, pastries, and tea.

      Set up a table with jars of product, and have the manufacturer’s representative take volunteers from among your guests for demonstrations. Pass test jars around so everyone can smell and feel the products.

Also consider changes to your routine for regular clients to keep them from getting bored. Integrate new products into treatments and give them paraffin hand dips and scalp massage (as allowed in your state). Do these without creating new expectations by mentioning it’s a special offering for that week or month.

      Building a good relationship with your clients is the most important way to succeed without spending a lot of money. Your integrity, intentions, and caring will keep clients coming back because of you, not the free goodies. 

A wonderful way to promote products without handing out complimentary samples is to have an event where your clients can sample products and bring their friends.

 

Margarita Saian, state-certified educator and ambassador of the Aesthetic International Association, has been in the skin care industry for more than 20 years. She has studied esthetics and mesotherapy in both the U.S. and France, and has been featured in KTLA5 News, as well as in trade magazines such as DERMASCOPE, Skin Inc, DAYSPA, Medesthetics and Les Nouvelles Esthetiques. Ms. Saian is a licensed esthetician, CMA/cardiac technician, national certified phlebotomy technician, certified ECG and the founder of SAIAN natural clinical skin care.