Newest Treatments for the Neck, Chest and Decollete

Estheticians, if you missed my presentation at National Aesthetic Spa Network this past weekend in Colorado, I have it here for you! Neck, Chest and Decollete treatments from A to Z - many of which you will find out about for the first time! Enjoy, and let me know if you learned something new and cool! 

We have an amazing creme featuring THESE newest and most potent ingredients. The new and improved SAIAN® Neck & Chest Lift Creme with Edelweiss Stem Cells™ is specifically formulated to firm and tone sagging skin, and reduce wrinkles in the neck and chin area. Tightens, stimulates cell circulation, removes toxins, melts away fat and inhibits the formation of fat deposits! This creme is based on hyaluronic acid and features the newest and most potent ingredients that counteract gravity and lift sagging jowls, neck and décolleté – Adiposlim, Adipoless, Idealift and Majestem. Incredible results in only a short 3 weeks! You can wear this creme along with the washable and reusable neck bandages. 

Treating Cellulite With the Newest European Ingredients

Cellulite is nothing more than normal fat beneath the skin. The fat appears bumpy as a result of the skin’s inability to hold back the pockets of fat cells which push up against the connective tissue below the epidermis. This results in a dimpled and pocketed texture on the the thighs, hips and buttocks, arms and the abdomen. 

SAIAN Bio-Contour Slimming Cellulite Gel lessens the appearance of cellulite areas by reducing the volume of fat cells and moisturizing the skin. It is absolutely natural, easy to use, and safe. The main ingredients used in this product are Adiposlim™ and Adipoless™. Adiposlim™ is  a main component of dermal structure proteins and lauric acid. Both ingredients target the adipocytes, amongst the biggest cells in the body and used to store fat. Adiposlim releases fatty acids into the blood stream, preventing them from clumping together. Adipoless™ is quinoa extract - the role of quinoa is to stop cell maturation and force the adipocytes to become dormant. A clinical trial using Adiposlim™ on the thigh area showed a visual improvement in the appearance of cellulite in 71% of treated subjects.

SAIAN Bio-Contour Slimming Cellulite Gel gel is water-based and fragrance-free, and is perfect to use with radio frequency equipment, cavitation machine, microcurrent, galvanic, and ultrasonic. It is also ideal for body wraps, thigh and abdomen wraps, and arm wraps. This gel’s revitalizing properties make it an obvious choice when it comes to natural slimming therapy.

• Reduces the appearance of cellulite dimples
• Tones and firms for a smooth and toned look
• Moisturizes and hydrates the skin

Anti-Aging Skin Treatments for the Neck and Chest

The face, neck and décolleté are exposed to the sun, wind and cold weather, and must be all cared for in the same way as the face during the professional treatment and at home. The delicate neck and décolleté area is often ignored when it comes to application of moisturizers and sunscreen, and is easily susceptible to dehydration and sun damage. The signs of aging in the neck area are a result of our muscles losing elasticity, so along with a proper skincare regime, we have to learn to firm and tone the muscles to hold the skin tightly. As we age, the neck and jowls may start to show horizontal wrinkles and folds and begin to droop because of the daily gravitational pull, and slowing down of collagen production. This, of course causes the face to look much older than it may look otherwise. Also, genetics play a big role in the way our skin looks in that area. While many women take very good care of the skin on their face, the neck and chest often reveal their true age. 

SIGNS OF AGING ON NECK AND DÉCOLLETÉ 

Because the skin on the neck and décolleté is thinner and less elastic than skin in other areas, it’s more susceptible to environmental damage, which is compounded by the fact that this area is much more likely to be neglected and unprotected. The most common types of skin problems that are seen on the neck and chest are hyperpigmentation (brown spots), wrinkles, crinkliness, horizontal “necklace lines”, redness, blotchiness, elastosis, and skin tags. More complicated issues such as cutis rhomboidalis nuchae (leathery deep wrinkling on the back of the neck), and poikiloderma of Civatte (usually affects the front and sides of the neck in mostly fair-skinned clients) both result from long-term sun damage, are benign, and require gentle care. The skin on the neck is definitely different than that on the face, and if not well taken care of, will create unattractive disharmony that many women are self-conscious about. 

SPECIALIZED SPA TREATMENTS 

There is a variety of different anti-aging neck and décolleté treatments that can be done in the spa to address these issues above. Most clients will require a series of treatments to see results, so it is advised to suggest a package deal of 3 – 6 treatments. Treatments range from the most basic enzyme exfoliation, to laser rejuvenation, and prices can be set according to your area. 

Exfoliation 

To achieve a lifting effect, estheticians should start the cleansing and exfoliation routine upwards from the décolleté and continue to the face. Enzymes are a wonderful way to safely exfoliate the skin - this has been my favorite method for years! An enzymatic exfoliation is a good natural way to clean out the pores, get rid of excess oils, slough off the dry and dead skin for a healthy cell turnover. Fruit enzymes, such as Bromelain (from pineapple) and Papain (from papaya) eat away at the oils and dry skin, to expose a refreshed, clear complexion. Enzyme masks are generally more gentle and more safe than acids, and don’t thin the skin like Retin-A. A good natural enzyme mask brightens the skin, activates cellular function, increases circulation, fades discoloration and leaves the skin feeling and looking fresh, smooth and healthy. Dry enzyme masks that are activated moments before application are more potent, and have a longer shelf-life than pre-activated gel-like masks. This type of facial exfoliant usually comes in the form of a mask based on marine clay, bentonite, or oats. This is my favorite type of enzyme mask, because it’s more gentle than an enzyme peel, which generally contain 10% to 30% AHA, and is not suited for everyone. An example of such a product would be a pumpkin peel. It is quite strong, so it’s not always recommended for the thin skin on the chest. Just like a chemical peel, please administer an enzyme peel with caution, making sure your client is a good candidate for the product. Some menopausal clients may experience redness and sensitivity on the décolleté, so it's better to hold off on the deep exfoliation. The average time needed for enzymes to do their job is 7-10 minutes, this treatment can be repeated once in 3 weeks, and can be added to any basic facial for as little as $20. 

Mask 

Pure collagen masks are the perfect hydrating and anti-aging treatment for the neck and chest. Décolleté products should not be too harsh, since the skin is thin in that area. It's also preferable to have fragrance-free, hypoallergenic products, to avoid any reaction. For the best results, choose German masks which are made from the highest quality medical-grade freeze-dried insoluble collagen fibers. These masks come dry, are soaked with an activator solution, and then molded to the face for 20 minutes. This specialized facial not only provides a tightening of the skin, but moisturizes, plumps, and reduces wrinkles for up to 3 weeks. Ideally, clients are encouraged to return for a facial once every 3-4 weeks, and the average cost is $150-$180 for an hour – hour and a half facial. 

Photorejuvenation 

An IPL laser (Intense pulsed light) usually gives good results for diminishing redness, fresh hyperpigmentation, and stimulating mild collagen growth. A series of 6 is recommended, and the cost is usually around $500 per treatment.. Like all laser treatments, it’s best to do this in the winter time, and the client will need maintenance treatments when brown spots reappear, usually once or twice a year. 

Fractional lasers are newer and also treat wrinkles and post-acne scars. The non-ablative fractional lasers, like the Fraxel, may cost as much as $5000 for 6 treatments, and have a two day down-time. This laser will take two to six months to give the best results. Ablative fractional lasers, like the Active FX, have a four to eight day down-time day downtime and give a better result for the crinkly areas on the neck. The cost of this procedure is usually $1,000-$2,000 per treatment, and a series of 4 is recommended over a six month time span. I like to stay safe, and don’t work over the thyroid or the breasts with mechanical equipment to avoid stimulation of the lymphatic system. 

HOME CARE 

At home, one should cleanse that whole area with cleanser daily, and exfoliate with an enzyme mask once in three days. This is the only way to achieve an even transition in color and texture from the bust to the face. Moisturizer, as well as sunscreen should always be applied, to prevent sun damage and wrinkles. I am a true believer in peptides, and the best combination that I have found to work well against wrinkles on the face and neck has been Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline®) with Matrixyl ™3000. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline®) improves wrinkle depth, wrinkle volume and roughness. Matrixyl ™3000 minimizes crow’s feet and laugh lines, and prevents from further damage and wrinkle formation.Usually, peptides are best absorbable when used in a water-based serum, with the addition of low-molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid. 

This is the formulation behind SAIAN Active Renewal Serum. Ingredients are listed on the label starting with the most prevalent to the least prevalent. It is important to choose a product which is water-based, and has peptides in the beginning of the ingredient list – this way you can be assured of the amount of peptides in the formula. You may also consult the manufacturer, and ask what percentage of a given peptide is used. Usually, 10% of each peptide is sufficient to give great results, if there is a blend of 3 or 4 peptides in a formula. Avoid peptide combinations that are mixed with hydroquinone, parabens, and other toxins that can irritate the skin. 

EXERCISE 

One of the reasons for wrinkles on the neck and bust is gravitational pull, and often sleeping on high pillows and sleeping on the side can cause lines and wrinkles between the breasts and on the neck. Reversing the gravitational pull can be done by wearing a neck bandage or a compression garment for the face. This mechanical mode of lifting the neck, and resisting the gravitational pull works well when the client is doing housework or sleeping. The best way to prevent sagging, and to reduce preexisting damage is to do simple exercises that tone the muscles. Clients typically see results within the first month of consistent exercises. To target the “turkey neck”, the muscle which needs to be focused on is the platysma. The platysma muscle arises from the pectoral and deltoid muscles and rises over the clavicle, proceeding upward in a slanting manner along the sides of the neck. This group of muscles holds the neck and jaw line upward in youth but may separate during the normal aging process, leading to a drooping chin, sagging jawline and loose skin under the chin. 

The easiest exercise to tone this muscle is “kissing the ceiling”. Tilting the head up, extending the lips, as if kissing the ceiling. It’s advised to do 3 rounds of 20 reps each day for a toned neck. I hope my advice was helpful to better understand the variety of treatments for the neck and décolleté. All systems work well for different people, so the key is finding a balance. There is no need to incorporate all the items I list in the article to achieve amazing results, but I am confident that trying some of these treatments, products, machines, and exercises will greatly benefit your clients!

SAIAN® 's Commitment to Quality

SAIAN® is committed to producing superior quality, highly concentrated, ingredient-dense skincare products which deliver dramatic instant and cumulative results. Our lab specializes in the most advanced natural hypoallergenic products containing no artificial color, no artificial fragrance, no propylene glycol, and no parabens. The products are recommended by Dermatologists, Plastic Surgeons, Skin Care Professionals, and Medspas for use on the most sensitive skin. The advantage of working with SAIAN® clinical products is the benefit of superior hands-on training and in-depth educational program. Always on the leading edge, SAIAN® continues to develop innovative, results-driven skin care, and makes it available to consumers in the US and abroad! http://saian.net/

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Targeted Topical Therapy for Rosacea and Post-Procedure Bruising with SAIAN® Vital-K™ Creme

We all know that aloe vera is soothing and cooling, and chamomile is relaxing, but did you know about Arnica? This amazing medicinal herb has been taken internally in Europe for centuries to heal organ trauma, and applied topically to reduce swelling, treat bruises, wounds and bug bites. It has anti-inflammatory properties, and is mild and non-agressive in topical skin care products. What is really amazing, is Arnica's ability to reduce bruising - the mechanism in lies in the herb's ability to stimulate blood flow and move stagnation through the veins and capillaries. When a lesion of capillaries is traumatized by physical impact, or inflamed from exposure to the harsh elements, we see the dark color on the skin's surface. Applying an Arnica creme to the area significantly reduces the swelling and dark patch, and brings the color back to normal, as well as moves blood through the damaged capillaries for reduced discomfort and pain.

We recommend SAIAN® Vital-K™ Creme - the most-effective paraben-free topical creme which works wonders on postoperative bruising following cosmetic surgery or injections, rosacea, dark circles, and hyperpigmentation. 

Bruising and dark spots are the appearance of blood which has been released from the tiny capillaries of the battered area into the tissue under the skin. Over time the color eventually fades as the blood is absorbed back into the body and away from the surface. To halt the expansion and deepening of unsightly discoloration, we use Phytonadione (Vitamin K). This is the body's natural blood coagulating agent which stops the spread of blood from seeping further. Individuals with low levels of Vitamin K will often experience wider and darker bruises, taking excessively long periods of time to recover because is not enough Vitamin K in their systems to prevent this from occurring. Not only is this creme perfect for post-surgical and injection-site bruising, but also ideal for cuperose, rosacea, and dark under-eye circles.

SAIAN® Vital-K™ Creme provides a powerful dose of Vitamin K to repair the damaged area, supplying your skin with the means to halt the flow of bruising and pause discoloration. To maximize and quicken the recovery process, we use Arnica. This natural herb, rich with anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties is a highly efficient vasodilator of blood capillaries. Arnica drastically increases the fade back time, by escalating the recession of blood away from the damaged capillaries and back into the body. This helps return your skin to a flush and even color in a fraction of the time it would usually take. The mechanism lies in the herb's ability to stimulate blood flow and move stagnation through the veins and capillaries. When a lesion of capillaries is traumatized by physical impact, or inflamed from exposure to the harsh elements, we see the dark color on the skin's surface. Applying SAIAN® Vital-K™ Creme to the area significantly reduces the swelling and dark patch, and brings the color back to normal, as well as moves blood through the damaged capillaries for reduced discomfort and pain.

By combining these two powerful ingredients in a natural, paraben-free product, SAIAN® Vital-K™ Creme speeds up the color neutralization process and restores your skin in just a few daily applications! For best results, apply this creme to the affected area twice daily. This creme works best for under-eye dark circles when applied on top of SAIAN® Clinical Strength Under- Eye Serum.

Neck and Décolleté Treatments

I was recently interviewed by American Spa Magazine about neck and decollete treatments, and thought that it would be a wonderful idea to share my answers with you all! Here are some helpful tips on spa treatments, as well as home care.

1. What happens to the decollete area as people age and why is it so important to treat the decollete area?

The face, neck and décolleté are exposed to the sun, wind and cold weather, and must be all cared for in the same way as the face during the professional treatment and at home.The delicate neck and décolleté area is often ignored when it comes to application of moisturizers and sunscreen, and is easily susceptible to dehydration and sun damage. 

The signs of aging in the neck area is because our muscles lose elasticity – so we have to learn to firm and tone the muscles to hold the skin nice and tight. As we age, the neck and jowls may start to show horizontal wrinkles and folds and begin to droop because of the daily gravitational pull. This, of course causes the face to look much older than it may look otherwise. 

The reason for wrinkles on the neck and bust is often sleeping on high pillows, and sleeping on the side – causing lines and wrinkles between the breasts and on the neck.

2. How can skincare products and spa treatments help the decollete?

Most of us take very good care of our face, but often ignore the neck, décolleté and bust. Taking care of the neck and décolleté is no different than taking care of the face. To achieve a lifting effect, estheticians should start the cleansing and exfoliation routine upwards from the décolleté and continue to the face. At home, one should cleanse that whole area with cleanser daily, and exfoliate with scrub or enzyme mask once in three days. This is the only way to achieve an even transition in color and texture from the bust to the face. 

In addition to timely exfoliation, the neck should be protected from the harsh rays of the sun with clothing and sunscreen. The décolleté and neck must always be hydrated with a great moisturizer. 

3. What types of spa treatments are best for treating the decollete area?

Wonderful treatments for the décolleté include a light enzymatic exfoliation, massage, and a hydrating collagen mask. 

4. Can you offer any tips for spas on choosing decollete products? 

Décolleté products should not be too harsh, since the skin is thin in that area. It's also preferable to have fragrance-free, hypoallergenic products, to avoid any reaction. I dislike using mechanical equipment on the chest, or by the thyroid, to avoid stimulation of the lymphatic system.

5. Can you offer tips for spas on marketing decollete treatments and retail products?

The most convincing advertisement of products or treatments are before and after photos. Usually, a series of 6 treatments helps to achieve wonderful results, as well as the purchase of a home-use firming product, and lifting neck-bandage. Our company specializes in these bandages, and we sell many of them!

 6. Are there any spa clients that might not be a good fit for decollete treatments? If so, which ones?

Some menopausal clients may experience redness and sensitivity on the décolleté, so it's better to hold off on the deep exfoliation.

IECSC New York is Coming Up

Can't wait to see everyone in New York in 2 weeks! Here is Sunday's and Monday's Class info: please join us for 2 days of education and live hands-on demos of clinical skin care! http://www.iecsc.com/ny/education

The Correct Way to Apply Moisturizers

Is the overwhelming amount of moisturizers on the market causing you confusion? When to apply a creme? What about a serum? When to apply ampoules? What about a collagen spray? Do you really need all that "stuff"? 

Before making any recommendations, I like to conduct a client consultation, to analyze my client's skin. For anyone with dry, and very dry skin, I always recommend to start with a moisturizing milky cleanser twice a day. This way you know that all steps in your daily routine are designed to hydrate.

When it comes to moisturizing the skin, a serum always comes first! Remember, a serum has a watery, oil-free formula, that is easily absorbable by the skin. This type  of product is ideal for application around the delicate skin if the eyes, and the nasolabial folds. Most serums tend to be ionizable, and can be penetrated with a galvanic machine. This is a great way to get the best results from the active ingredients in the product! You don't need any big professional equipment - there are a number of hand-held units available on the market, that work as well as the large machine, and sometimes even better! Here is a link to a previous blog entry about the hand-held machines.

After applying a serum, it's best to apply a creme. The reason for this, is that a creme creates a barrier that helps keep the serum from evaporating. Since serums don't have oil, they penetrate quickly, but don't feel like they are moisturizing enough. Most of the time, serums leave a tight feeling on the skin. After application of creme, the skin will feel softer, more shiny and moisturized.

Ampoules and extremely liquid serums are best used under masks, especially collagen masks. Never wash the face after removing that product - remember, you are penetrating nourishing ingredients, so everything will stay on the skin after application.

Sanitation and Infection Control When Waxing

I am glad that you enjoyed my previous blog post on sanitation in the workplace for Estheticians, and would like to expand upon that topic now with some insights about waxing. Sanitation and infection-control are some of the first things we all learn in beauty school, and for good reason! It is crucial to have an understanding of the different kinds of infections you may come across, in order to protect yourself and the client. Clients rely on our knowledge and professionalism, and trust us with their health, so we must abide the law, and give them the best treatment without taking any shortcuts.With that said, spa and salon workers must be aware of contagious bacteria, fungi, parasites and viruses that can be contracted through broken skin, and pose serious health risks. Not only should we treat all clients with care to avoid getting them sick, but we must also protect ourselves in the workplace. Since the body’s first line of defense is unbroken skin, take care of your hands - they are your tools, so don’t bite your fingers, or pull on your cuticles. Keep your nails short, to avoid scratching the clients face, or breaking and snagging a nail by accident.

A very important service that must be performed with utmost care is waxing, and no matter what anyone else tells you, gloves are essential any time during contact with a client's blood, bodily fluids, secretions, excretions, non-intact skin, and mucous membrane. You must assume that all blood and bodily fluids are potential sources of infection. It is especially important to wear gloves when performing Brazilian/bikini waxing when the follicles are left open and can bleed, especially because that area has thick, coarse hair. In addition to any unknown blood-borne pathogens that may be transmitted via open pores, there is possibility of contracting herpes through broken skin, if you have any cuts/ broken lesions on your fingers, and don’t wear gloves.

Correct use of spatulas is very important during waxing. Be aware that hairs, as well as dry, dead skin may get into the wax container if you double-dip, so don’t keep using the same spatula throughout the service. The wooden tongue-depressors we use for waxing cost pennies, if even that! They are meant to be 100% disposable after ONE time use, so don’t double-dip - just toss it out and use a new one.

Make cleanup easy after waxing by using a disposable roll of waxing paper (just like you would see at your doctor’s office) over your sheets. Not only will it save your sheets from sticky wax, but it will give your clients the assurance that they are laying on a 100% clean surface.