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Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Pseudoaltera...what?

The newest advances in anti-aging skin care suggest that peptides are the way to go, and all recent evidence points to it being true. To review, a peptide is a molecule consisting of 2 or more amino acids. Peptides have brand names and INCI names such as dipeptides, tripeptides, tetrapeptides, octopeptides, and so on - depending on the number of amino acids they contain.
When used in clinical skin care products, peptides:
  • Support the healing and repair response.
  • Aid in increased skin thickness.
  • Refine the appearance of wrinkles.
  • Even skin texture and tone.
Most of us have become familiar with such potent wrinkle warriors as Argireline (INCI Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, formerly INCI Acetyl Hexapeptide-3), and Matrixyl-3000, but there is a new type of peptide on the market, and it is giving some amazing results.

During the Antarctic summer of 1988, a Spanish scientific expedition collected mud samples from the inlet Admiralty Bay, on King George Island, Antarctica. A new bacterial strain, Pseudoalteromonas Antarctica, was isolated from these samples and characterized. During growth, the bacteria produced an extracellular material, an exopolymer of glycoproteins believed to help the bacteria retain water, adhere to surfaces, and withstand the extreme cold. Its protective function in nature is applied in cosmetics to regenerate and protect the skin.

When used in clinical skin care products,such as SAIAN Amino-Lift Mask, and SAIAN Tri-Active Collagen Serum, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract:
An in vitro skin model composed of keratinocytes and fibroblasts was used to monitor the levels of Collagen I, Collagen IV and Elastin.

Collagen I increases 128% in 15 days
Collagen IV increases 81% in 15 days
Elastin levels increase 31% in 15 days

Skin topography analyses were performed by obtaining silicon imprints from around the eyes of 10 healthy women volunteers.The product tested was a cream containing 5% Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract and it was applied twice daily for 30 days. Silicon imprints were obtained pre-test and after 30 days. Analyses of the imprints were performed by confocal laser scanning microscopy to assess the evolution of the skin surface before and after the treatment. Skin topography images from the three dimensional reconstruction of optical sections are shown in the figure. The depth of the wrinkle decreased significantly, with maximum values between 50 and 60%.

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