Arnica Montana - Nature's Healer

We all know that aloe vera is soothing and cooling, and chamomile is relaxing, but did you know about Arnica? This amazing medicinal herb has been taken internally in Europe for centuries to heal organ trauma, and applied topically to reduce swelling, treat bruises, wounds and bug bites.

It has anti-inflammatory properties, and is mild and non-agressive in topical skin care products. What is really amazing, is Arnica's ability to reduce bruising - the mechanism in lies in the herb's ability to stimulate blood flow and move stagnition through the veins and capillaries. When a lesion of capillaries is traumatized by physical impact, or inflamed from exposure to the harsh elements, we see the dark color on the skin's surface. Applying an Arnica gel to the area significantly reduces the swelling and dark patch, and brings the color back to normal, as well as moves blood through the damaged capillaries for reduced discomfort and pain.

One of the most amazing masks which I have ever tried is the SAIAN Restoring Mask enriched with Arnica. This happens to be my personal favorite because of the formula being so pure and clean. It is almost edible, in fact it looks and smells almost tempting enough to eat! (It seems pretty logical given that research from the Archives of Facial and Plastic Surgery shows that when arnica is taken orally before surgery it reduces inflammation and reduces bruising!)  This topical gel does wonders on broken capillaries, inflamed skin, and dark under-eye circles. Did you know that under-eye circles are types of bruises, as well? They are formed by the same mechanism - clusters of broken capillaries which look dark under the skin, and give a dull and restless appearance on our faces. In addition to  Arnica, SAIAN Restoring Mask packs a powerful combination of vegan Hyaluronic Acid, Copper Peptide Complex, Aloe Vera, Cucumber Extract and Sage! This mask really is amazing, and I recommend it to everyone. Just 15 minutes will transform your skin!

Pseudoaltera...what?

The newest advances in anti-aging skin care suggest that peptides are the way to go, and all recent evidence points to it being true. To review, a peptide is a molecule consisting of 2 or more amino acids. Peptides have brand names and INCI names such as dipeptides, tripeptides, tetrapeptides, octopeptides, and so on - depending on the number of amino acids they contain.
When used in clinical skin care products, peptides:

• Support the healing and repair response.
• Aid in increased skin thickness.
• Refine the appearance of wrinkles.
• Even skin texture and tone.

Most of us have become familiar with such potent wrinkle warriors as Argireline (INCI Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, formerly INCI Acetyl Hexapeptide-3), and Matrixyl-3000, but there is a new type of peptide on the market, and it is giving some amazing results.

During the Antarctic summer of 1988, a Spanish scientific expedition collected mud samples from the inlet Admiralty Bay, on King George Island, Antarctica. A new bacterial strain, Pseudoalteromonas Antarctica, was isolated from these samples and characterized. During growth, the bacteria produced an extracellular material, an exopolymer of glycoproteins believed to help the bacteria retain water, adhere to surfaces, and withstand the extreme cold. Its protective function in nature is applied in cosmetics to regenerate and protect the skin.

When used in clinical skin care products,such as SAIAN Amino-Lift Mask, and SAIAN Tri-Active Collagen Serum, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract:

• Helps the skin retain water.
• Presents a cryoprotective effect due to its ability to modify the morphology of ice crystals.
• Stimulates fibroblast adhesion and keratinocyte growth, regenerating tissues and enabling a faster healing of wounds.
• Increases collagen type I and IV, as well as elastin, resulting in a restructured skin and a reduction in wrinkles.
• Reduces the depth of expression wrinkles, especially in the forehead and around the eyes.

An in vitro skin model composed of keratinocytes and fibroblasts was used to monitor the levels of Collagen I, Collagen IV and Elastin.

Collagen I increases 128% in 15 days
Collagen IV increases 81% in 15 days
Elastin levels increase 31% in 15 days

Skin topography analyses were performed by obtaining silicon imprints from around the eyes of 10 healthy women volunteers.The product tested was a cream containing 5% Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract and it was applied twice daily for 30 days. Silicon imprints were obtained pre-test and after 30 days. Analyses of the imprints were performed by confocal laser scanning microscopy to assess the evolution of the skin surface before and after the treatment. Skin topography images from the three dimensional reconstruction of optical sections are shown in the figure. The depth of the wrinkle decreased significantly, with maximum values between 50 and 60%.

Tomatoes - the delicious fountain of youth you always took for granted.

The summer heat is on, and what better way to quench your thirst than with a delicious fresh garden salad? And what salad can be without juicy sweet tomatoes? This delicious antioxidant fruit (often mistaken for a vegetable) does wonders for your health, and your skin!

Did you know that tomatoes are excellent blood purifiers, and the Nicotinic acid in tomatoes can help to reduce blood cholesterol (helping prevent heart disease)? In addition to that, tomatoes help decongest the liver (protecting it from cirrhosis). Vitamin K in tomatoes helps to prevent hemorrhages, and large consumption of tomato can help improve skin texture and color. And of course, lycopene (the red pigment in tomato), is a powerful antioxidant that can also fight cancer cells. This is also an ingredient used in SAIAN Strawberry Cleanser (which was featured in this month's issue of DAYSPA Magazine on p.70.

Nutraceuticals World | January 1, 2009 Tomato lycopene complex offers skin benefits.(Research Highlights)(Clinical report) 

A recently completed double-blind, placebo-controlled study indicates that supplementation with Lyc-O-Mato tomato extract, from LycoRed, helps protect the skin against damage from UV radiation by reducing sunburn cell formation and protecting the skin's immune system by slowing down the depletion of Langerhans cells, following exposure to UVB/UVA solar simulator.

COPYRIGHT 2009 Rodman Publishing. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)

The use of tomato for skin care is ideal because of its cooling and astringent properties. It is rich in vitamin C making it helpful for acne and brightening dull skin and contains vitamin A needed for building healthy skin. Its naturally acidic properties help it balance the skin and get rid of excessive oil.

In the heat of summer, it is easy to get sunburned - fortunately this easy recipe will cool irritation and remove sunburn. Simply add 2 tsp tomato juice to 1/2 cup of plain yogurt. Apply it all over your skin. Wash it off after keeping it for 1/2 hour.

I recommend purchasing organic tomatoes from your local growers, whenever possible, or better yet - planting them yourself! Growing your own herbs, fruits and vegetables is a rewarding process that will yield natural produce without pesticides or hormones. Beautiful tomato plants are available at Trader Joe's starting this week (for under $5!) I picked one up, and placed it on my balcony! Can't wait until they ripen!

High-Frequency Machine - Rocket Science??

A piece of equipment that no skin care professional can do without is a high-frequency unit. This is why I am more and more surprised by how many estheticians don't know how to use this amazing machine! Hopefully this brief introduction will be beneficial to those in doubt.

The high-frequency machine utilizes the ozone gas in the form of neon or argon to kill germs and bacteria which cause the spread of inflammation and pustules. It closes pores after extractions, and cauterizes any exposed blemishes. High-frequency can also be used for normal skin, to tone, tighten, and stimulate natural collagen formation. Limit use to 3-5 minutes per session.

Currently, the most practical way to go, is with a portable unit, which fits conveniently into a case, and comes with several attachments. These attachments are called electrodes, and are made of glass, with a metallic tip. When cleaning the glass after clients, make sure that the tip never touches water, alcohol, QUATS, or any other liquid which can cause it to rust.

These are the most popular types of electrodes which come standard on most high-frequency units:

• Large mushroom electrode: for the face, back, chest.
• Small mushroom electrode: for very small areas close to the nose, eyes, inside the ear, behind the ear.
• Comb: (should have a metallic coil inside) is used to provide an invigorating scalp treatment which stimulates the flow of blood and oxygen to the hair follicle. Helps prevent hair loss, stimulates more hair grows, moves stagnation, oxygenates, treats dandruff, sterilizes and dries blemishes on the scalp (caused by product allergy).

There is also an option of a bar with a metallic coil inside, which is used to provide an indirect high-frequency treatment. The client should hold this electrode, while the esthetician provides a light effleurage massage.

Contraindications for this machine are:

• Pregnancy
• Pacemaker
• Large metallic implants
• High blood pressure

All this said, I must mention that many people don't know the correct way to apply the high-frequency to their client's face. You may apply the electrode to the clean face (with no products), or on top of a gauze mask. The mask serves the purpose of keeping the electrode clean, as well as creating a small distance which should allow for sparking to occur. For the high-frequency treatment to yield desired results, one must maintain a distance of a couple of millimeters from the skin. This is called "sparking", and must be done to effectively sterilize the area. When the electrode slides on the skin directly, no significant results will be seen, so make sure this is something you don't forget to do the next time you provide a high-frequency treatment!

Sunscreen 101

The summer heat is on in Los Angeles, and all of us are feeling it on our skin. Gone are the days when it was fashionable to drench oneself in baby oil and bake in the sun. The huge market for hyperpigmentation products just shows how much damage was done... unfortunately it may be too late to turn back the hands of time, but it is possible to prevent future damage with the right sunscreen.

I'm not surprised that many people, including estheticians have questions about sun products. How do I choose the right one? What is an SPF? Is sunscreen safe for my children?

What is an SPF?
The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) displayed on the sunscreen label ranges from 2 to as high as 50 and refers to the product's ability to screen or block out the sun's harmful rays. For example, if you use a sunscreen with an SPF 15, you can be in the sun 15 times longer that you can without sunscreen before burning. Consumers need to be aware that SPF protection does not increase proportionally with an increased SPF number. While an SPF of 2 will absorb 50% of ultraviolet radiation, an SPF of 15 absorbs 93% and an SPF of 34 absorbs 97%
- American Melanoma Foundation

I, personally, dislike oily fragrant products that clog the pores, and cause blemishes and irritation. Many of these over the counter lotions contain very high amounts of chemicals, propylene glycol and parabens that increase the SPF. The best way to go is definitely with a water-based physical block (Titanium Dioxide). The best sunscreen is SAIAN Sunscreen Mist SPF 29, which provides full UVA and UVB protection without irritation! Always read the ingredients on the back of the container, and don't go overboard with a high SPF - it is better to choose a mid-range SPF and re-apply often!

Here is some interesting and beneficial information from the American Melanoma Foundation:

http://www.melanomafoundation.org/prevention/facts.htm

Collagen Infusion - The New Non-Surgical Face-Lift

Collagen is produced by our body, and is made of protein. We all know that with age, we lose collagen in our joints, skin and mucous membranes. The result is wrinkled skin, droopy muscles and weak eyesight... Some products, such as peptides, can significantly improve our skin's appearance and minimize wrinkles when applied topically for a course of (at least) 28 days. Hyaluronic Acid plumps the skin, and hydrates it helping smooth out laugh lines and crow's feet.

For daily use, I highly recommend a hyaluronic acid serum with peptides to rejuvenate and lift the skin, and prevent further aging. SAIAN Active Renewal Serum is the purest formula available on the market - only hyaluronic acid, 6 peptides ( featuring the strongest concentration of Argireline and Matrixyl-3000) and 2 botanical preservatives - ethylhexylglycerin and phenoxyethanol. This super potent serum should be used twice daily for best results (morning and evening) and can be used in the treatment room with a galvanic machine for a non-surgical face lift.

When it comes to topical anti-aging treatments, there's nothing better than the luxorious Collagen Infusion. This is the treatment which produces instantaneous hydration and plumping around the eyes and the nasolabial folds for a dramatic effect which is hard to match! All that is needed to perform this treatment is the SAIAN Pure Collagen Sheet Mask and Pure Collagen Liquid. 

1. Fold the mask in half over the client’s face.
2. Mark and cut the mask around the eyes and nose area.
3. Spray the face with Pure Collagen-Elastin Liquid.
4. Apply the dry collagen mask immediately over the face quickly.
5. Spray with Pure Collagen-Elastin until thoroughly wet, molding gently to the face and throat with sponges.
6. Slide over the neck and face with SAIAN 4 Step Beauty System Machine (+) upward to increase absorption for the first 10 minutes. Leave mask on the face for no less than 20 minutes.
7. Remove the collagen sheet mask by lifting it off in one piece.
8. Apply SAIAN Active Renewal Crème or Amino-Lift Mask.
9. Roll over the face with Cryo-Globes.
10. Spray with SAIAN Sunscreen Mist SPF 29.

Natural vs. Organic - what's the difference?

I often am asked by professionals what is the difference between "natural" and "organic" skin care products. To be quite honest, is very hard to identify truly organic products from first glance. In accordance with current labeling regulations, any personal care products can have the word "organic" in their brand name or on their product label, but unless they are USDA certified, the main cleansing ingredients and preservatives are usually made with synthetic and petrochemical compounds.

Although there are multiple standards around the world for what qualifies as "organic", the USDA (Unites States Department of Agriculture) approves and certifies organic products with a USDA seal, which all of us have become familiarized with at our produce isle. Look for the USDA organic seal and read the ingredient label to find out how many ingredients are truly organic and how many are synthetic.

Natural skin care products do not require USDA organic certification. Their composition should not contain any chemical compounds such as Propylene Glycol or Parabens—methyl, propyl, butyl and ethyl (alkyl-p-hydroxybenzoates). Believe it or not, these very popular cosmetic ingredients have been used by skin care manufacturers for years, and are still going strong. Parabens actually mimic the body's own estrogen hormones and can have endocrine-disrupting action when they are rubbed into the body or washed down the drain into your drinking water. In addition to being a very popular cosmetic ingredient, Propylene Glycol is also found in your car's antifreeze, and brake fluid.

http://www.health-report.co.uk/ethylene_glycol_propylene_glycol.htm

As an alternative to these chemical additives, natural skin care products should contain Ethylhexylglycerin and Phenoxyethanol, which are safe and non-toxic. These are the preservatives used in the SAIAN skin care line.

Airbrush for acne - good idea?

I was doing a bit of research on oxygen machines this week, and was surprised by the similarities between the big oxygen units and the little, yet effective airbrush machines. Just a couple of drops of serum or foundation is enough for the whole face. The product is atomized with high pressure, and delivered deeply and evenly into the pores for better absorption and a more plump, toned, and even look.

What upset me, though was that the airbrush units were largely advertised as solutions for acne... It is, of course, easier to cover-up the problem instead of fixing it... and this is exactly the solution that the airbrush treatment is offering acne sufferers. It scared me to think that any knowledgeable professional would apply foundation in this way to someone with serious cystic acne... but this is extremely common, and no one sees anything wrong with it.

Personally, I don't recommend airbrush to anyone who has blemishes, open sores, and inflammation. Regular foundation may sit on top of the skin, clogging the pores and not allowing skin to breathe, but think of that same foundation being sprayed with force - much better penetration, and even more pore-clogging effect. The result - inflammation, clogged pores, and more blemishes in the long run.

I recommend holding off on the airbrush until the acne condition subdues, and if you must provide a cover-up make-up application to an acne client, using SAIAN Acne Spot Treatment first, then masking it with foundation on top. This is only for evening time, though - seeing that the product contains 2% Salicylic Acid, which may give discoloration if over-exposed to sunlight.