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"Mis" - Treatments

Last night I had a body-scrub and massage at one of my favorite LA spas, but this time (strangely enough) the experience wasn't as pleasant as usual. High-end spas usually charge top-dollar for body treatments, and employ well-qualified, seasoned, experienced massage and bodywork specialists. One assumes that the personnel of more opulent spas is better than the average... but sometimes massage technicians make simple mistakes that are very easily caught by a professional, such as yours truly. 

I have noticed that it is becoming harder and harder for me to receive treatments, the more knowledgeable I become - i.e. it is hard to fall asleep during a facial massage, because I am aware of all the wrong movements. Here are some obvious no-no's therapists can commit, which make them look unprofessional, and make the treatment a lot more "Ugh" than "Omm".

1. Engaging in conversation is always discouraged, unless the client starts talking herself. Most of us come to receive a facial, or a body treatment to relax and unwind, so the last thing we want to do is talk. I absolutely do not feel like explaining to a stranger what I do for a living, do I have a boyfriend or not, etc.

2. Sanitation, sanitation, sanitation! This is the most important, and sacred of all spa routines. Your therapist needs to change linens between clients, disinfect all implements (in a proper State-Board approved manner), and keep the room tidy. Disposables need to be thrown away after every use (duh!) and that includes those body-scrubbing mitts they use to polish the body. I always make sure to request a new scrubbing mitt, or I don't get the service. It costs the spa less than $1, so it is really not that big of a deal, and they better not complain to you when you request it!

3. Speaking of mitts... I was shocked when the woman scrubbing me from the toes to neck (in that particular order) proceeded to use the same scrubbing mitt on my face! Here is just common knowledge everyone should be aware of when doing a full body scrub:

• Use a new mitt for every client.
• Start with the face, and only then do the rest of the body (imagine that the mitt has already been on the heels and toes of the feet... everywhere between the toes and the neck (um)... and then on the FACE!)

4.  Don't get beat up at a massage - I promise, it shouldn't hurt as bad as it does when an untrained therapist does it. A good massage therapist starts slowly and methodically working into the muscles, and doesn't initially pound and shake like a maniac. The woman doing my massage was jumping from one area to another, digging in with her fingers, making the experience very uncomfortable. A good technician will let the client know when to breathe out, to get a better stretch into the muscle, and ease tension. A good massage should have a logical pattern on the body - you should not lie there and be played like a xylophone! Not to mention double the discomfort when the woman massaging you doesn't have her fingernails trimmed short. No, thank you.

In short, there are many things which can go wrong and spoil your moment of relaxation, but once you have found a great masseuse, you will never have to worry! Personally, I am always on a quest for wonderful treatments - sometimes it is a hit, sometimes a miss, every time a learning experience!

Marine Ingredients - Beauty from the Sea

What new marine-based ingredients have been harvested, and what properties do these new ingredients possess? 

• Algae extracts, such as Agarum Cribosum and Laminaria, are rich in protein, amino acids, 106 vitamins and minerals essential to skin care and well-being, and have anti-aging and slimming properties.
• Marine Collagen is popular in Japan in nutricosmetics and beauty. Marine Collagen Astraxanthin is an emerging antioxidant found in tropical red seaweed, salmon flesh, and the shells of shrimp and crabs. It has anti-aging properties - improving the skin's elasticity and tone, and reducing fine lines and wrinkles.

Which established ingredients have withstood the test of time, and what new discoveries have been made about them?

Marine Collagen is a form of collagen that derived from an assortment of sea algae species Laminaria and Padina (and, every now and then, Codfish). This Marine Collagen Polypeptide is designed to stimulate type III Collagen deep down within the skin. Collagen is a large molecule that alone cannot penetrate into the skin - so scientists found that polypeptide technology can actually stimulate the synthesis Marine Collagen in the skin. This new technology allows the skin to open up and allow the collagen through, because the regular molecule is too large to get in. Combination of marine collagen with polypeptide technology, will help our skin by

• stimulating collagen production, and elastin collagen thickening
• encouraging skin renewal and minimizing muscle contractions
• reducing the appearance of deep wrinkles and fine lines
• helping provide long-term improvements in deeper wrinkles
• helping prevent collagen and elastin breakdown to firm the skin

This is the principle behind SAIAN Collagen Infusion Therapy- natural, safe, and effective for clients of all ages! It can be performed by cosmetologists and estheticians without any additional medical licenses. Certification available with SAIAN workshop classes. Check our website's calendar section for full class schedule in your state.

ACNE - Correct home treatment with clinical strength products.

Acne is one of the hardest skin problems to treat topically, so when we come across new products, we are often skeptical as to their effectiveness. The typical acne patient has tried "everything" on the market, starting from drugstore brands, to the infamous infomercial brands, to the expensive brands recommended by his or her dermatologist. 

The best clinical acne products are formulated with no chemicals, propylene glycols, parabens, and absolutely no benzoyl peroxide. When you read the facts on these popular ingredients, you will be shocked at how dangerous they can be, especially for the younger clients. Of course, it all depends on the percentage of the ingredient in the formula, but when you think about all the personal care products we use daily on our face and body - it all adds up to quite a bit.

On the other hand, you can choose an alternative to harsh chemical-filled skin care products, by using an all-natural, results-oriented clinical brand.When a client first comes to see his or her esthetician for an intensive SAIAN acne facial, he or she will see results right away - up to a 75% reduction of blemishes on the treated area after the first visit! The products in the SAIAN acne line contains only active ingredients to treat break-outs, kill germs and bacteria, and calm down inflammation. SAIAN is 100% vegan, with no artificial fragrance and no artificial color, and hypoallergenic.This is the perfect line for achieving the best results in the spa, and med-spa setting.

Let's not forget that all etheticians are like doctors for their clients-this is essentially how our line was developed. We wanted to give estheticians an easy and painless way to treat their clients in the treatment room, and also send them home with products to improve and maintain their skin between visits. To see real results, the acne clients HAS to purchase products, and do his or her homework daily! This is imperative for the client's well being, and will create a good relationship between client and esthetician. The best way to start the client on an at-home routine, is with the SAIAN Acne Try-Me Kit, which is affordable, and will last about 3 weeks. This product is based on Salicylic Acid, Bentonite Clay, Seaweed Extracts, Camphor, Sulphur, Magnesium, Iron Oxide, and Oxygen Plasma.  The results after only a couple of days of use are unbelievable! The blemishes are reduces, dried up, and the redness is gone. 

I often have professionals asking me this question: 

-"My client's acne is gone! Her skin looks amazing, but she feels dry! What is she supposed to do now?"

Good question. Well, think about it - when you get sick with the flu, you go to the store and buy medicine. Let's say you take the medicine every 4-6 hours for 2 days straight, and on the third day you wake up... and Ahhhh! What a relief! No runny nose, no headache, and you're not coughing anymore! Do you keep taking your flu medicine?

The same goes for clinical strength skin care products. When your client doesn't have a break-out, why use "medicine"? You should advise him or her to switch cleansers (SAIAN Strawberry Cleanser is a great foamy clenaser that won't dry out the skin) and use the SAIAN Acne Spot Treatment from the kit on any individual blemishes that may still have lingered. It is also a good idea to exfoliate 3 times a week with SAIAN Enzyme Mask, to get rid of any dry skin, and cleanse the pores. If he or she still feels dry - the best two moisturizers are SAIAN Amethyste Replenishing Creme and SAIAN Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum (DAYSPA Magazine's Editor's Choice for 2010)!

Creative New Enzyme Treatment from Dori in Florida!

Hello Dasha and Margarita,

Greetings from Florida. I'm very excited and I wanted to let you know about the results I have been getting with the Saian enzyme mask. Instead of mixing it with water, I have been mixing it with organic honey and about 1 to 2 drops (no more) of water. It has a very tacky consistency, and I apply it with my fingers to the face. Once applied, I massage it into the skin, and the stickiness of it with massage (particularly tapotement) over wrinkles and blemishes really helps to "lift" them out. Yes, it is very sticky, and this honey-lift massage does a good job of toning the facial muscles. After massaging for a few minutes, I proceed with steam for about 7-8 more minutes, and remove with hot towels. Then I follow with the Saian galvanic lifting treatment. This combination is a beautiful lifting treatment, and boosts the effectiveness of the enzyme mask. The skin is deeply cleaned, lifted and moisturized. My clients love it, and so do I. Please let me know what you think of this--and if you decide to try it, I would like to hear your opinion.

Have a happy, healthy day,

Dori

Caring For the Neck, Face and Décolleté

The face, neck and décolleté are exposed to the sun, wind and cold weather, and must be all cared for in the same way as the face during the professional treatment and at home. The bust is covered with clothes – this is why it has beautiful silky skin, free of sun damage. Did you know that the neck (and of course the hands) are a sure sign of a woman’s real age?

The delicate neck and décolleté area is often ignored when it comes to application of moisturizers and sunscreen, and is easily susceptible to dehydration and sun damage.

The signs of aging in the neck area is because our muscles lose elasticity – so we have to learn to firm and tone the muscles to hold the skin nice and tight. As we age, the neck and jowls may start to show horizontal wrinkles and folds and begin to droop because of the daily gravitational pull. This, of course causes the face to look much older than it may look otherwise.

The reason for wrinkles on the neck and bust is often sleeping on high pillows, and sleeping on the side – causing lines and wrinkles between the breasts and on the neck.

Most of us take very good care of our face, but often ignore the neck, décolleté and bust. Taking care of the neck and décolleté is no different than taking care of the face. To achieve a lifting effect, estheticians should start the cleansing and exfoliation routine upwards from the décolleté and continue to the face. At home, one should cleanse that whole area with cleanser daily, and exfoliate with scrub or enzyme mask once in three days. This is the only way to achieve an even transition in color and texture from the bust to the face.

In addition to timely exfoliation, the neck should be protected from the harsh rays of the sun with clothing and sunscreen. The décolleté and neck must always be hydrated with a great moisturizer.

A wonderful way to prevent sagging and wrinkles in the neck and décolleté area is to do special exercises which train the muscles in that area to be firm and lifted. Stretching the neck and spine upward - reduces the likelihood of getting a short and wrinkled neck. These exercises are even more effective when paired with contrast showers – hot and cold. It is best to end your shower with cold water – this way, the neck and décolleté will get a nice toning workout. Wherever the icy cold water hits, the muscles will tighten up and tone.

The best way to prevent wrinkles on the neck, décolleté and bust is to sleep on your back without a pillow, or with a flat pillow. To firm, tone and lift the bust, it is very important to do special exercises daily.

PRODUCTS

I don’t like to use body products on the neck and décolleté, because that area is as delicate as the face. I definitely do not recommend harsh body scrubs and heavy oils. A “body” product may be fine for the rest of the body, but the neck and décolleté definitely deserve the same treatment as the face!

One of the best treatments for the neck, décolleté and bust area is Collagen Infusion, using Hyaluronic Ampoules, Collagen Elastin Liquid, Peptides and a Pure Collagen Freeze Dried Mask. This treatment immediately plumps up the area, and reduces dryness and wrinkles. This can be done as a separate treatment or in combination with the Collagen Infusion for the face. As a take-home treatment, it is best to recommend your client a natural Hyaluronic Acid neck-firming crème, and a washable bandage to wear over it – preventing and softening wrinkles, and counteracting the gravitational pull. It’s like a bra for that area!

Натуральные Маски из Тыквы! Домашние Рецепты.

• Маска из тыквы для зрелой кожи лица.

Тыкву очистите от кожуры, после чего натрите на терке. Кашица из натертой на мелкой терке тыквы и отжатый из нее сок используются как тонизирующее средство по уходу за любой кожей. Соком пропитывают тонкий слой ваты, кашицу наносят на марлевую салфетку или непосредственно на лицо. Продолжительность маски - 15-20 минут, частота процедур - 2-3 раза в неделю. Курс - 15-20 масок. Они питают, витаминизируют, увлажняют и очищают кожу лица.

• Маска из тыквы для любой кожи лица.

К кашице из 2-3 столовых ложек вареной тыквы прибавить яичный желток и чайную ложку меда. Маску нанести на лицо теплой, через 10-15 минут смыть прохладной водой. Перед нанесением маски следует наложить на лицо горячий компресс (на 2-3 минуты). Кожа становится свежей и красивой.

• Маска для сухой кожи

2 столовые ложки вареной тыквы хорошо взбить и смешать со столовой ложкой оливкового, миндального или другого растительного масла. Нанести на лицо на 20 минут, а затем вымыть его прохладной водой.

• Эмульсия из сырых семян тыквы для ухода за кожей лица.

Семена очистить от кожуры, растереть в ступке, влить воду в соотношении 1:10 до получения однородной массы. Полученной эмульсией смазать лицо и через 10-15 минут смыть теплой водой. Такая процедура придает коже лица свежесть и нежность.

• Маска для сухой кожи со сливками.

Взять 30-40 г тыквы, нарезать кусочками залить 0,5 стаканом жидких сливок или молока проварить в течении 10 минут, образовавшуюся массу в теплом виде нанести на кожу лица и шеи. Через 25-30 минут смыть теплой водой.

Reward Your Clients' Loyalty - Margarita Saian for SKIN DEEP Magazine March/April 2010 p.8

Look for this wonderful article by SAIAN founder Ms.Margarita Saian in this month's Skin Deep magazine on p8.

New Ways to Reward Clients 

Q. I used to send product samples home with my clients, but the economy has forced me to cut back. I’m not sure how to keep rewarding their loyalty. Ideas? 

A. Even in difficult times, you can make your clients happy on a small budget. First, try to work with companies that will supply you with promotional materials from time to time, such as brochures, DVDs, fliers, posters, and complimentary samples. Work with brands that will send representatives to your spa to do product demonstrations and presentations for your staff and clientele. Education is your best tool for retailing products and it builds brand confidence with your clients.

      A wonderful way to promote products without handing out complimentary samples is to have an event where your clients can sample products and bring their friends. To relax your guests, consider including free 15-minute massages by one of your spa’s therapists. The therapist can also invite his or her clientele to experience the skin care side of the event. Your invitations should mention coupons, drawings, massage, product testing, and snacks. Keep your budget in line by serving light veggie snacks, pastries, and tea.

      Set up a table with jars of product, and have the manufacturer’s representative take volunteers from among your guests for demonstrations. Pass test jars around so everyone can smell and feel the products.

Also consider changes to your routine for regular clients to keep them from getting bored. Integrate new products into treatments and give them paraffin hand dips and scalp massage (as allowed in your state). Do these without creating new expectations by mentioning it’s a special offering for that week or month.

      Building a good relationship with your clients is the most important way to succeed without spending a lot of money. Your integrity, intentions, and caring will keep clients coming back because of you, not the free goodies. 

A wonderful way to promote products without handing out complimentary samples is to have an event where your clients can sample products and bring their friends.

 

Margarita Saian, state-certified educator and ambassador of the Aesthetic International Association, has been in the skin care industry for more than 20 years. She has studied esthetics and mesotherapy in both the U.S. and France, and has been featured in KTLA5 News, as well as in trade magazines such as DERMASCOPE, Skin Inc, DAYSPA, Medesthetics and Les Nouvelles Esthetiques. Ms. Saian is a licensed esthetician, CMA/cardiac technician, national certified phlebotomy technician, certified ECG and the founder of SAIAN natural clinical skin care.

Arnica Montana - Nature's Healer

We all know that aloe vera is soothing and cooling, and chamomile is relaxing, but did you know about Arnica? This amazing medicinal herb has been taken internally in Europe for centuries to heal organ trauma, and applied topically to reduce swelling, treat bruises, wounds and bug bites.

It has anti-inflammatory properties, and is mild and non-agressive in topical skin care products. What is really amazing, is Arnica's ability to reduce bruising - the mechanism in lies in the herb's ability to stimulate blood flow and move stagnition through the veins and capillaries. When a lesion of capillaries is traumatized by physical impact, or inflamed from exposure to the harsh elements, we see the dark color on the skin's surface. Applying an Arnica gel to the area significantly reduces the swelling and dark patch, and brings the color back to normal, as well as moves blood through the damaged capillaries for reduced discomfort and pain.

One of the most amazing masks which I have ever tried is the SAIAN Restoring Mask enriched with Arnica. This happens to be my personal favorite because of the formula being so pure and clean. It is almost edible, in fact it looks and smells almost tempting enough to eat! (It seems pretty logical given that research from the Archives of Facial and Plastic Surgery shows that when arnica is taken orally before surgery it reduces inflammation and reduces bruising!)  This topical gel does wonders on broken capillaries, inflamed skin, and dark under-eye circles. Did you know that under-eye circles are types of bruises, as well? They are formed by the same mechanism - clusters of broken capillaries which look dark under the skin, and give a dull and restless appearance on our faces. In addition to  Arnica, SAIAN Restoring Mask packs a powerful combination of vegan Hyaluronic Acid, Copper Peptide Complex, Aloe Vera, Cucumber Extract and Sage! This mask really is amazing, and I recommend it to everyone. Just 15 minutes will transform your skin!

Pseudoaltera...what?

The newest advances in anti-aging skin care suggest that peptides are the way to go, and all recent evidence points to it being true. To review, a peptide is a molecule consisting of 2 or more amino acids. Peptides have brand names and INCI names such as dipeptides, tripeptides, tetrapeptides, octopeptides, and so on - depending on the number of amino acids they contain.
When used in clinical skin care products, peptides:

• Support the healing and repair response.
• Aid in increased skin thickness.
• Refine the appearance of wrinkles.
• Even skin texture and tone.

Most of us have become familiar with such potent wrinkle warriors as Argireline (INCI Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, formerly INCI Acetyl Hexapeptide-3), and Matrixyl-3000, but there is a new type of peptide on the market, and it is giving some amazing results.

During the Antarctic summer of 1988, a Spanish scientific expedition collected mud samples from the inlet Admiralty Bay, on King George Island, Antarctica. A new bacterial strain, Pseudoalteromonas Antarctica, was isolated from these samples and characterized. During growth, the bacteria produced an extracellular material, an exopolymer of glycoproteins believed to help the bacteria retain water, adhere to surfaces, and withstand the extreme cold. Its protective function in nature is applied in cosmetics to regenerate and protect the skin.

When used in clinical skin care products,such as SAIAN Amino-Lift Mask, and SAIAN Tri-Active Collagen Serum, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract:

• Helps the skin retain water.
• Presents a cryoprotective effect due to its ability to modify the morphology of ice crystals.
• Stimulates fibroblast adhesion and keratinocyte growth, regenerating tissues and enabling a faster healing of wounds.
• Increases collagen type I and IV, as well as elastin, resulting in a restructured skin and a reduction in wrinkles.
• Reduces the depth of expression wrinkles, especially in the forehead and around the eyes.

An in vitro skin model composed of keratinocytes and fibroblasts was used to monitor the levels of Collagen I, Collagen IV and Elastin.

Collagen I increases 128% in 15 days
Collagen IV increases 81% in 15 days
Elastin levels increase 31% in 15 days

Skin topography analyses were performed by obtaining silicon imprints from around the eyes of 10 healthy women volunteers.The product tested was a cream containing 5% Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract and it was applied twice daily for 30 days. Silicon imprints were obtained pre-test and after 30 days. Analyses of the imprints were performed by confocal laser scanning microscopy to assess the evolution of the skin surface before and after the treatment. Skin topography images from the three dimensional reconstruction of optical sections are shown in the figure. The depth of the wrinkle decreased significantly, with maximum values between 50 and 60%.

Tomatoes - the delicious fountain of youth you always took for granted.

The summer heat is on, and what better way to quench your thirst than with a delicious fresh garden salad? And what salad can be without juicy sweet tomatoes? This delicious antioxidant fruit (often mistaken for a vegetable) does wonders for your health, and your skin!

Did you know that tomatoes are excellent blood purifiers, and the Nicotinic acid in tomatoes can help to reduce blood cholesterol (helping prevent heart disease)? In addition to that, tomatoes help decongest the liver (protecting it from cirrhosis). Vitamin K in tomatoes helps to prevent hemorrhages, and large consumption of tomato can help improve skin texture and color. And of course, lycopene (the red pigment in tomato), is a powerful antioxidant that can also fight cancer cells. This is also an ingredient used in SAIAN Strawberry Cleanser (which was featured in this month's issue of DAYSPA Magazine on p.70.

Nutraceuticals World | January 1, 2009 Tomato lycopene complex offers skin benefits.(Research Highlights)(Clinical report) 

A recently completed double-blind, placebo-controlled study indicates that supplementation with Lyc-O-Mato tomato extract, from LycoRed, helps protect the skin against damage from UV radiation by reducing sunburn cell formation and protecting the skin's immune system by slowing down the depletion of Langerhans cells, following exposure to UVB/UVA solar simulator.

COPYRIGHT 2009 Rodman Publishing. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)

The use of tomato for skin care is ideal because of its cooling and astringent properties. It is rich in vitamin C making it helpful for acne and brightening dull skin and contains vitamin A needed for building healthy skin. Its naturally acidic properties help it balance the skin and get rid of excessive oil.

In the heat of summer, it is easy to get sunburned - fortunately this easy recipe will cool irritation and remove sunburn. Simply add 2 tsp tomato juice to 1/2 cup of plain yogurt. Apply it all over your skin. Wash it off after keeping it for 1/2 hour.

I recommend purchasing organic tomatoes from your local growers, whenever possible, or better yet - planting them yourself! Growing your own herbs, fruits and vegetables is a rewarding process that will yield natural produce without pesticides or hormones. Beautiful tomato plants are available at Trader Joe's starting this week (for under $5!) I picked one up, and placed it on my balcony! Can't wait until they ripen!

High-Frequency Machine - Rocket Science??

A piece of equipment that no skin care professional can do without is a high-frequency unit. This is why I am more and more surprised by how many estheticians don't know how to use this amazing machine! Hopefully this brief introduction will be beneficial to those in doubt.

The high-frequency machine utilizes the ozone gas in the form of neon or argon to kill germs and bacteria which cause the spread of inflammation and pustules. It closes pores after extractions, and cauterizes any exposed blemishes. High-frequency can also be used for normal skin, to tone, tighten, and stimulate natural collagen formation. Limit use to 3-5 minutes per session.

Currently, the most practical way to go, is with a portable unit, which fits conveniently into a case, and comes with several attachments. These attachments are called electrodes, and are made of glass, with a metallic tip. When cleaning the glass after clients, make sure that the tip never touches water, alcohol, QUATS, or any other liquid which can cause it to rust.

These are the most popular types of electrodes which come standard on most high-frequency units:

• Large mushroom electrode: for the face, back, chest.
• Small mushroom electrode: for very small areas close to the nose, eyes, inside the ear, behind the ear.
• Comb: (should have a metallic coil inside) is used to provide an invigorating scalp treatment which stimulates the flow of blood and oxygen to the hair follicle. Helps prevent hair loss, stimulates more hair grows, moves stagnation, oxygenates, treats dandruff, sterilizes and dries blemishes on the scalp (caused by product allergy).

There is also an option of a bar with a metallic coil inside, which is used to provide an indirect high-frequency treatment. The client should hold this electrode, while the esthetician provides a light effleurage massage.

Contraindications for this machine are:

• Pregnancy
• Pacemaker
• Large metallic implants
• High blood pressure

All this said, I must mention that many people don't know the correct way to apply the high-frequency to their client's face. You may apply the electrode to the clean face (with no products), or on top of a gauze mask. The mask serves the purpose of keeping the electrode clean, as well as creating a small distance which should allow for sparking to occur. For the high-frequency treatment to yield desired results, one must maintain a distance of a couple of millimeters from the skin. This is called "sparking", and must be done to effectively sterilize the area. When the electrode slides on the skin directly, no significant results will be seen, so make sure this is something you don't forget to do the next time you provide a high-frequency treatment!

Sunscreen 101

The summer heat is on in Los Angeles, and all of us are feeling it on our skin. Gone are the days when it was fashionable to drench oneself in baby oil and bake in the sun. The huge market for hyperpigmentation products just shows how much damage was done... unfortunately it may be too late to turn back the hands of time, but it is possible to prevent future damage with the right sunscreen.

I'm not surprised that many people, including estheticians have questions about sun products. How do I choose the right one? What is an SPF? Is sunscreen safe for my children?

What is an SPF?
The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) displayed on the sunscreen label ranges from 2 to as high as 50 and refers to the product's ability to screen or block out the sun's harmful rays. For example, if you use a sunscreen with an SPF 15, you can be in the sun 15 times longer that you can without sunscreen before burning. Consumers need to be aware that SPF protection does not increase proportionally with an increased SPF number. While an SPF of 2 will absorb 50% of ultraviolet radiation, an SPF of 15 absorbs 93% and an SPF of 34 absorbs 97%
- American Melanoma Foundation

I, personally, dislike oily fragrant products that clog the pores, and cause blemishes and irritation. Many of these over the counter lotions contain very high amounts of chemicals, propylene glycol and parabens that increase the SPF. The best way to go is definitely with a water-based physical block (Titanium Dioxide). The best sunscreen is SAIAN Sunscreen Mist SPF 29, which provides full UVA and UVB protection without irritation! Always read the ingredients on the back of the container, and don't go overboard with a high SPF - it is better to choose a mid-range SPF and re-apply often!

Here is some interesting and beneficial information from the American Melanoma Foundation:

http://www.melanomafoundation.org/prevention/facts.htm

Collagen Infusion - The New Non-Surgical Face-Lift

Collagen is produced by our body, and is made of protein. We all know that with age, we lose collagen in our joints, skin and mucous membranes. The result is wrinkled skin, droopy muscles and weak eyesight... Some products, such as peptides, can significantly improve our skin's appearance and minimize wrinkles when applied topically for a course of (at least) 28 days. Hyaluronic Acid plumps the skin, and hydrates it helping smooth out laugh lines and crow's feet.

For daily use, I highly recommend a hyaluronic acid serum with peptides to rejuvenate and lift the skin, and prevent further aging. SAIAN Active Renewal Serum is the purest formula available on the market - only hyaluronic acid, 6 peptides ( featuring the strongest concentration of Argireline and Matrixyl-3000) and 2 botanical preservatives - ethylhexylglycerin and phenoxyethanol. This super potent serum should be used twice daily for best results (morning and evening) and can be used in the treatment room with a galvanic machine for a non-surgical face lift.

When it comes to topical anti-aging treatments, there's nothing better than the luxorious Collagen Infusion. This is the treatment which produces instantaneous hydration and plumping around the eyes and the nasolabial folds for a dramatic effect which is hard to match! All that is needed to perform this treatment is the SAIAN Pure Collagen Sheet Mask and Pure Collagen Liquid. 

1. Fold the mask in half over the client’s face.
2. Mark and cut the mask around the eyes and nose area.
3. Spray the face with Pure Collagen-Elastin Liquid.
4. Apply the dry collagen mask immediately over the face quickly.
5. Spray with Pure Collagen-Elastin until thoroughly wet, molding gently to the face and throat with sponges.
6. Slide over the neck and face with SAIAN 4 Step Beauty System Machine (+) upward to increase absorption for the first 10 minutes. Leave mask on the face for no less than 20 minutes.
7. Remove the collagen sheet mask by lifting it off in one piece.
8. Apply SAIAN Active Renewal Crème or Amino-Lift Mask.
9. Roll over the face with Cryo-Globes.
10. Spray with SAIAN Sunscreen Mist SPF 29.

Natural vs. Organic - what's the difference?

I often am asked by professionals what is the difference between "natural" and "organic" skin care products. To be quite honest, is very hard to identify truly organic products from first glance. In accordance with current labeling regulations, any personal care products can have the word "organic" in their brand name or on their product label, but unless they are USDA certified, the main cleansing ingredients and preservatives are usually made with synthetic and petrochemical compounds.

Although there are multiple standards around the world for what qualifies as "organic", the USDA (Unites States Department of Agriculture) approves and certifies organic products with a USDA seal, which all of us have become familiarized with at our produce isle. Look for the USDA organic seal and read the ingredient label to find out how many ingredients are truly organic and how many are synthetic.

Natural skin care products do not require USDA organic certification. Their composition should not contain any chemical compounds such as Propylene Glycol or Parabens—methyl, propyl, butyl and ethyl (alkyl-p-hydroxybenzoates). Believe it or not, these very popular cosmetic ingredients have been used by skin care manufacturers for years, and are still going strong. Parabens actually mimic the body's own estrogen hormones and can have endocrine-disrupting action when they are rubbed into the body or washed down the drain into your drinking water. In addition to being a very popular cosmetic ingredient, Propylene Glycol is also found in your car's antifreeze, and brake fluid.

http://www.health-report.co.uk/ethylene_glycol_propylene_glycol.htm

As an alternative to these chemical additives, natural skin care products should contain Ethylhexylglycerin and Phenoxyethanol, which are safe and non-toxic. These are the preservatives used in the SAIAN skin care line.

Airbrush for acne - good idea?

I was doing a bit of research on oxygen machines this week, and was surprised by the similarities between the big oxygen units and the little, yet effective airbrush machines. Just a couple of drops of serum or foundation is enough for the whole face. The product is atomized with high pressure, and delivered deeply and evenly into the pores for better absorption and a more plump, toned, and even look.

What upset me, though was that the airbrush units were largely advertised as solutions for acne... It is, of course, easier to cover-up the problem instead of fixing it... and this is exactly the solution that the airbrush treatment is offering acne sufferers. It scared me to think that any knowledgeable professional would apply foundation in this way to someone with serious cystic acne... but this is extremely common, and no one sees anything wrong with it.

Personally, I don't recommend airbrush to anyone who has blemishes, open sores, and inflammation. Regular foundation may sit on top of the skin, clogging the pores and not allowing skin to breathe, but think of that same foundation being sprayed with force - much better penetration, and even more pore-clogging effect. The result - inflammation, clogged pores, and more blemishes in the long run.

I recommend holding off on the airbrush until the acne condition subdues, and if you must provide a cover-up make-up application to an acne client, using SAIAN Acne Spot Treatment first, then masking it with foundation on top. This is only for evening time, though - seeing that the product contains 2% Salicylic Acid, which may give discoloration if over-exposed to sunlight.