Sleeping Beauty

The skin’s loss of firmness and flexibility can be traced back to unprotected sun exposure. The potent plant stem cell extracts we use, and their respective secondary metabolites have been demonstrated in laboratory studies to reduce damage to existing collagen and elastin fibers from ultraviolet radiation in several ways:

• Plant stem cell extracts modulate pro-inflammatory cytokine production following exposure to ultraviolet radiation.
• They suppress UV-induced free radicals—evident by their high oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) scores that contribute to oxidative stress involved in the destructive cross-linking of healthy collagen and elastin fibers.
• By inhibiting free radical generation, plant stem cell extracts protect DNA and preserve the natural order for regenerating new collagen and elastin.
• Ultraviolet radiation alters mitochondrial energy production in dermal fibroblasts, resulting in less energy in the form of adenosine triphosphate (ATP). This slows down cellular activities that maintain firm and smooth skin. By ramping up ATP production, plant stem cell extracts replenish energy levels to improve cellular metabolism, promote new collagen and elastin, and boost DNA repair.
  

SAIAN remarkable Botanical Stem Cell Mask uses the latest stem cell technology to derive powerful actives from Acai Palm, Chinese Basil, and White Oak resource materials. These derivatives impart antioxidant, protectant, and anti-aging benefits. The secret is in this mask’s unique transparent, breathable, nourishing, odorless, and non-sticky film base. Simply apply by smoothing gently over the entire face, avoiding eye area, wait until completely dry, and go to sleep with it on. While you sleep, SAIAN Botanical Stem Cell Mask sits comfortably on the face, and doesn’t rub off on your pillow. Its hydroscopic and breathable barrier properties ensure the skin locks in moisture, and breathes uninterrupted. It is easy to remove with a light wash, upon waking up.

The Best Post-Microneedling Products on the Market

1. Before beginning the treatment, make sure you have your SAIAN Pure Hyaluronic Acid Spray and SAIAN Cryo-Globes in the refrigerator. The finishing cooling touch is very important at the end of this treatment.

2. Cleanse the face with SAIAN Replenishing Cleanser. This milky cleanser’s gentle and natural formula removes surface impurities and all traces of make-up, leaving skin moisturized and supple. Aloe vera and chamomile are hydrating, softening, calming, as well as anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory. This product is perfect for sensitive skin.

3. Apply numbing cream to treatment area and leave on for 30 minutes. Remove numbing cream thoroughly.

4. Apply antiseptic wipe to treatment area.

5. Apply 1/2 SAIAN Hyaluronic Acid Ampoule to the entire treatment area. The rest of the ampoule will be used later in the treatment.

6. Begin treatment by dividing the face into five parts: forehead, left and right cheeks, nose, upper lip and chin.

7. Apply a few drops of SAIAN Hyaluronic Acid Ampoule to the treatment area.

8. Perform microneedling according to your device’s manufacturer’s instructions. Work on all 5 sections in the same manner until the entire face has been treated. After treating each section, wipe any bleeding.

9. After the entire face has been treated, take the SAIAN Pure Hyaluronic Acid Spray out of the refrigerator, and spray the face with SAIAN Pure Hyaluronic Acid Spray. This product serves as an activator for the collagen mask, as well as a light, oil-free hydrator. 

10. Cover the face with SAIAN Pure Pure Collagen Mask. Fold the mask in half over the client’s face, mark and cut the mask around the nose area. Apply the dry collagen mask immediately over the face quickly and spray with more SAIAN Pure Hyaluronic Acid Spray, molding gently to the face and neck with sponges. Leave mask on the face for no less than 20 minutes. Remove the mask.

11. Apply SAIAN Vital K Creme to the entire face. This creme provides a powerful dose of Vitamin K to repair the damaged area, supplying the patient’s skin with the means to halt the flow of bruising and pause discoloration. To maximize and quicken the recovery process, we use Arnica. This natural herb, rich with anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties is a highly efficient vasodilator of blood capillaries. Arnica drastically increases the fade back time, by escalating the recession of blood away from the damaged capillaries and back into the body. This helps return the skin to a flush and even color in a fraction of the time it would usually take after it has been traumatized by physical impact. Applying SAIAN Vital K Creme to the area significantly reduces the swelling and dark patch, and brings the color back to normal, as well as moves blood through the damaged capillaries for reduced discomfort and pain.

12. Spray with SAIAN Sunscreen Mist. This is an oil-free light sunscreen spray. Chemical sunblocks are never recommended after invasive treatments, and this light Titanium dioxide based sunscreen is the perfect alternative.

13. Roll over the entire area with SAIAN Cryo Globes.

Lash Conditioners 101

How do lash conditioners work and what are the benefits of using lash conditioning products?

Lash conditioners are usually applied to the base of the eyelashes at night, and contain a molecule which prolongs the hair growth cycle, and extends the life of essential cells, so that your lashes don’t fall out as often. These products also strengthen lashes by moisturizing them with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid. An added benefit is, unlike with using eyelash extensions applied with glue, conditioners don’t cause damage, and can be used in conjunction with mascara and eyeliner.

What are typical ingredients used in these products and how do they encourage lash growth and benefit the lashes?  Typical ingredients for these types of products are peptides, hyaluronic acid, and stem cells. These ingredients prolong the hair growth cycle, and extend the life of essential cells, so that your lashes don’t fall out as often.

What ingredients are important to look for in an effective lash conditioner?

Peptides, hyaluronic acid, and stem cells are wonderful ingredients in lash conditioners. Look for conditioners without prostaglandin, as this ingredient has been known to cause the pupils of the eyes to turn a darker color.

Are there any hygiene issues associated with using a lash conditioner?

As with any make-up, it is discouraged to share this product with others, only use the lash conditioner for yourself. Sharing eye care products can lead to transferable eye infections such as pink eye.

Hyaluronic Acid Supplements and their Benefits

Hyaluronic Acid supports the structure of connective tissue by acting as a water magnet to maintain extra-cellular fluidity. HA forms a viscous fluid with exceptional lubricating properties necessary for the vital functions of many parts of the human body including the skin, heart valves, aqueous/vitreous portion of the eye and synovial fluid (joint cushion and lubricant). The skin contains over 50% of the body’s HA. Considering that skin is over 70% water and renews itself more frequently than most other bodily tissues, HA is absolutely vital for its structure and daily maintenance. Skin is constantly involved in cellular renewal and repair because of daily exposure to solar radiation, pressure, heat, trauma and minor wounds.

Our bodies are in a continual state of rebuilding. New skin cells replace old ones about every 20 to 30 days. Normally, HA in skin tissue is broken down by an enzyme called Hyaluronidase at a precise rate. The rate of HA degradation can be increased by excess intake of riboflavin (B-2), ultraviolet radiation exposure and viruses. Any long-term overexposure to any of these may result in premature connective tissue breakdown, resulting in skin damage. Considering that 10-150 mg’s of HA is normally metabolized or excreted daily, with a higher rate of loss in persons over 50, it may make sense for older adults to begin supplementing with one 50 mg capsule three times daily to maintain equilibrium.

We have the perfect supplement for you daily needs:

http://saian.net/produ…/snc-labs-hyaluronic-acid-complex-ha/

Go "AU NATUREL" With Weightless Moisturizers

Go "AU NATUREL" with weightless moisturizers that let your skin breathe! Our potent formulas are based on vegan hyaluronic acid that moisturizes, plumps the skin, and reduces the appearance of wrinkles - all without clogging your pores. 

http://saian.net/product/amethyste-creme/

Have you tried our moisturizers? A light hyaluronic acid moisturizer, Replenishing Creme combines highly effective biogenic ingredients to soothe, nurture and restore the skin’s moisture content. This soft creme contains squalane from olive oil, and plant-derived Hyaluronic Acid, a naturally occurring substance responsible for tissue hydration, lubrication and cellular function. Hyaluronic Acid can hold over 1000x its weight in water. When used to hydrate the skin, this results in increased smoothness, softening and decreased wrinkles. 

Cruelty-free, vegan, paraben-free, propylene glycol-free, fragrance-free, and hypoallergenic. No GMO ingredients, and made in USA!

Weightless, Oil-Free Serums That Let Your Skin Breathe

Go "AU NATUREL" with weightless, oil-free serums that let your skin breathe! Our potent formulas are based on vegan hyaluronic acid that moisturizes, plumps the skin, and reduces the appearance of wrinkles - all without clogging your pores. 

Have you tried SAIAN Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum? Its formula contains only water, Hyaluronic Acid and 2 non-chemical vegetable based preservatives – ethylhexylglycerin and phenoxyethanol. It is a topical wrinkle filler, as well as the strongest non-comedogenic hydrator available on the market. Paraben-free, fragrance-free and hypoallergenic, SAIAN Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum is the perfect hydrator for all skin types, including acneic and aging/dehydrated skin. http://saian.net/product/pure-hyaluronic-acid-serum/

It's no wonder that this product is the WINNER OF 2010 DAYSPA MAGAZINE EDITOR’S CHOICE AWARD.

Dayspa Magazine Editor Rhonda Wilson writes about the SAIAN Pure Hyaluronic Acid:

“I believe in truth in advertising, and the name of this serum just doesn’t do it justice. It should be called Pure Nirvana, because clouds part and my skin sings every time I use it. Not only does it feel like liquid silk, but hyaluronic acid also tightens, brightens and heightens my skin’s natural glow. Who said heaven doesn’t exist on Earth?”

Home Care for Sensitive and Dry Skin

When it comes to home-care, before making any recommendations, I like to conduct a client consultation, to analyze my client's skin. For anyone with dry, and very dry skin, I always recommend to start with a moisturizing milky cleanser twice a day. This can be a cleanser based on Aloe Vera, Chamomile, Calendula, Sage, and Vitamin E. Choose a cleanser that doesn’t irritate the eyes, and also removes make-up well. By starting with a milky cleanser, you know that all steps in your daily routine are designed to hydrate. The face, neck and décolleté are exposed to the sun, wind and cold weather, and must be all cared for in the same way as the face during the professional treatment and at home. The delicate neck and décolleté area is often ignored when it comes to application of moisturizers and sunscreen, and is easily susceptible to dehydration and sun damage. 

Most of us take very good care of our face, but often ignore the neck, décolleté and bust. Taking care of the neck and décolleté is no different than taking care of the face. To achieve a lifting effect, estheticians should start the cleansing and exfoliation routine upwards from the décolleté and continue to the face. At home, one should cleanse that whole area with cleanser daily, and exfoliate with scrub or enzyme mask once in three days. This is the only way to achieve an even transition in color and texture from the bust to the face. Décolleté products should not be too harsh, since the skin is thin in that area. It's also preferable to have fragrance-free, hypoallergenic products, to avoid any reaction. I dislike using mechanical equipment on the chest, or by the thyroid, to avoid stimulation of the lymphatic system.

When it comes to moisturizing the skin, a serum always comes first. Choose serums based on Hyaluronic Acid containing Peptides that reduce wrinkles and rejuvenate skin. As we all know, ingredients are listed on the label starting with the most prevalent to the least prevalent. It’s important to choose a product which is water-based, and has peptides in the beginning of the ingredient list – this way you can be assured of the amount of peptides in the formula. You may also consult the manufacturer, and ask what percentage of a given peptide is used. Usually, 10% of each peptide is sufficient to give great results, if there is a blend of 3 or 4 peptides in a formula. 

Avoid peptide combinations that are mixed with hydroquinone, parabens, and other toxins that can irritate the skin, and don’t forget to nourish your skin with Vitamin C. Three of the most potent forms of Vitamin C available on the market today are Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate. This powerful antioxidant combination in a serum fights free radicals, stimulates collagen production, nourishes the skin, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and brightens skin tone while keeping stable. Remember, a true serum has a watery, oil-free formula that is easily absorbable by the skin. This type of product is ideal for application around the delicate skin if the eyes, and the nasolabial folds. Most serums tend to be ionizable, and can be penetrated with a galvanic machine while the client is getting a facial. This is a great way to get the best results from the active ingredients in the product! You don't need any big professional equipment - there are a number of hand-held units available on the market, that work as well as the large machine, and sometimes even better! 

I also love collagen! Marine collagen is a form of collagen that derived from an assortment of sea algae species Laminaria and Padina. This marine collagen polypeptide is designed to stimulate type III Collagen deep down within the skin. Collagen is a large molecule that alone cannot penetrate into the skin - so scientists found that polypeptide technology can actually stimulate the synthesis marine collagen in the skin. This new technology allows the skin to open up and allow the collagen through, because the regular molecule is too large to get in. Combination of marine collagen with polypeptide technology, will help our skin by stimulating collagen production, and elastin collagen thickening, encouraging skin renewal and minimizing muscle contractions, reducing the appearance of deep wrinkles and fine lines, helping provide long-term improvements in deeper wrinkles, helping prevent collagen and elastin breakdown to firm the skin.

After applying a serum, it's best to apply a creme. The reason for this is that a creme creates a barrier that helps keep the serum from evaporating. Since serums don't have oil, they penetrate quickly, but don't feel like they are moisturizing enough. Most of the time, serums leave a tight feeling on the skin. After application of creme, the skin will feel softer, more shiny and moisturized. This is especially beneficial during the wintertime, since most of us feel dry and chapped. For cremes, I recommend looking for a hyaluronic acid base with Peptides, Apricot Kernel Oil, Squalene (from olives, not shark liver), and Jojoba Oil. There are also some great new ingredients specifically designed for the wind and cold, such as Antarcticine. This ingredient helps the skin retain water, preventing cutaneous dryness, stimulates fibroblast adhesion and keratinocyte growth, regenerating tissues and enabling a faster healing of wounds, and increases collagen type I and IV, as well as elastin, resulting in a restructured skin and a reduction in wrinkles. This active ingredient also reduces the depth of wrinkles, especially on the forehead and around the eyes.

To complete the daily skincare regimen, use sunscreen daily, regardless of season, since the sun shines on us every day of the year. I recommend a sunscreen which is non-comedogenic, and non-toxic. Remember to choose a sunscreen with physical blocks like Zinc and Titanium dioxide, as opposed to chemicals which will enter the bloodstream and cause long-term damage in the long run.

Hyperpigmentation Education

A short introduction of our new brightening and whitening product! SAIAN Anti Hyperpigmentation Serum + α Arbutin contains Hyaluronic Acid, mineral-rich Seaweed Extract, and 3 of the most potent non-toxic whitening agent available on the market today. Tyrostat™ (derived from Rumex Occidentalis Extract), Nonapeptide-1 (Melanostatine®5) , and α Arbutin address the affects of discoloration and hyperpigmentation on the skin. These amazing new natural ingredients prevent hyperproduction of melanin and further activation of tyrosinase, thus blocking melanin synthesis for better control over skin tone & brown spots.

Peptide Combinations in Skincare

—Which formulations/combinations is your company currently exploring and why (how they work, skincare benefits, etc)?

We love peptides, and the best combination that we have found to work well against wrinkles has been Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline®) with Matrixyl ™3000. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline®) improves wrinkle depth, wrinkle volume and roughness. Matrixyl ™3000 minimizes crow’s feet and laugh lines, and prevents from further damage and wrinkle formation.

—Are delivery systems (into the skin) an issue? How is that addressed in your formulas?
Usually, peptides are best absorbable when used in a water-based serum, with the addition of low-molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid. This is the formulation behind SAIAN Active Renewal Serum.

—This topic can easily get confusing for even the most well-versed esthetician: what advice can you give for ways to sort through all their peptide product options, and to interpret labels?
As we all know, ingredients are listed on the label starting with the most prevalent to the least prevalent. It’s important to choose a product which is water-based, and has peptides in the beginning of the ingredient list – this way you can be assured of the amount of peptides in the formula. You may also consult the manufacturer, and ask what percentage of a given peptide is used. Usually, 10% of each peptide is sufficient to give great results, if there is a blend of 3 or 4 peptides in a formula. Our serums have 6 peptides!

—Which peptide/peptide or peptide/other ingredient combos do you think should be avoided and why?
Avoid peptide combinations that are mixed with hydroquinone, parabens, and other toxins that can irritate the skin.

—What do you envision for the future of peptides in skin care?
The future of peptides most likely lies in skin-repairing copper-peptide complex, and in all natural paraben-free combinations.

A short tutorial on the ingredients and uses of SAIAN Amino-Lift Leave-On Mask!

Check out my first Video Blog! This is a short tutorial on the ingredients and uses of SAIAN Amino-Lift Leave-On Mask! http://saian.net/product/amino-lift-leave-on-mask/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osw09hHaLrI

My Article This Month in Dermascope Magazine - All About Serums

Microcurrent FAQ

A couple of weeks ago, I shared some valuable information about microcurrent devices, and their use in professional aesthetics. Today, I'd like to expand upon this topic, and thoroughly explain the best modes of marketing and promoting your new Non-Surgical Face-Lift treatment!

As you know, we are living in a day and age where everyone seeks instant gratification, and this amazing facial procedure is sure to give your clients the immediate and cumulative results they are looking for! 

MICROCURRENT FAQ:

-What's some of the most effective language a spa pro could use to summarize your machine's complex, high-tech offerings on a spa service menu (or any other printed collateral)?
Clients want to know the end result of this treatment, so calling this a microcurrent non-surgical face-lift is the most effective way to put it on the menu! Your clientele will be excited to read that this treatment tightens the skin, reduces the appearance of wrinkles, tones and firms the muscles, and gives the face a younger, more lifted appearance!

-What are some effective ways a spa owner could market these offerings?
The best, and most convincing way to market a microcurrent treatment, is with before and after images of the clients who have had it. The results speak for themselves!

-Who should the target client be? 

The ideal client for a microcurrent procedure is anyone over the age of 21, who may be concerned with wrinkles, loss of skin tone, muscle tone and elasticity, as well as clients complaining of an overall droopy appearance - sagging jowls, flat cheekbones, and pronounced nasolabial folds.



-Since serial treatment is often advised, do you have any tips for getting clients to re-book services?
A series of 6 treatments, spaced about 2-3 weeks apart is ideal. The best way to promote this package, is by giving a discount when the client pays upfront. You may also consider counting the 6th treatment as complimentary, when 5 are purchased upfront at regular price.

-Any other tips spa pros could use to get the word out about your device?
Since this microcurrent non-surgical face-lift is ideal before special events, it is a great idea to network with make-up artists, to coordinate providing services before weddings, parties, and photo-shoots. Another great way to promote the service is to place your flyers at photo-studios, hair salons, and at bridal shops.

-What are the best ways to educate spa pros on how to perform services using your device?
The best way to master this treatment is by taking a workshop class from the device manufacturer. Many companies offer free classes at trade-shows, as well as group demos at their headquarters. Personally, I am an avid advocate of trying everything on myself, before putting it on the spa menu for my clientele. This way you will be familiar with the sensation of the machine, and experience its benefits first hand!

Pseudoaltera...what?

The newest advances in anti-aging skin care suggest that peptides are the way to go, and all recent evidence points to it being true. To review, a peptide is a molecule consisting of 2 or more amino acids. Peptides have brand names and INCI names such as dipeptides, tripeptides, tetrapeptides, octopeptides, and so on - depending on the number of amino acids they contain.
When used in clinical skin care products, peptides:

• Support the healing and repair response.
• Aid in increased skin thickness.
• Refine the appearance of wrinkles.
• Even skin texture and tone.

Most of us have become familiar with such potent wrinkle warriors as Argireline (INCI Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, formerly INCI Acetyl Hexapeptide-3), and Matrixyl-3000, but there is a new type of peptide on the market, and it is giving some amazing results.

During the Antarctic summer of 1988, a Spanish scientific expedition collected mud samples from the inlet Admiralty Bay, on King George Island, Antarctica. A new bacterial strain, Pseudoalteromonas Antarctica, was isolated from these samples and characterized. During growth, the bacteria produced an extracellular material, an exopolymer of glycoproteins believed to help the bacteria retain water, adhere to surfaces, and withstand the extreme cold. Its protective function in nature is applied in cosmetics to regenerate and protect the skin.

When used in clinical skin care products,such as SAIAN Amino-Lift Mask, and SAIAN Tri-Active Collagen Serum, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract:

• Helps the skin retain water.
• Presents a cryoprotective effect due to its ability to modify the morphology of ice crystals.
• Stimulates fibroblast adhesion and keratinocyte growth, regenerating tissues and enabling a faster healing of wounds.
• Increases collagen type I and IV, as well as elastin, resulting in a restructured skin and a reduction in wrinkles.
• Reduces the depth of expression wrinkles, especially in the forehead and around the eyes.

An in vitro skin model composed of keratinocytes and fibroblasts was used to monitor the levels of Collagen I, Collagen IV and Elastin.

Collagen I increases 128% in 15 days
Collagen IV increases 81% in 15 days
Elastin levels increase 31% in 15 days

Skin topography analyses were performed by obtaining silicon imprints from around the eyes of 10 healthy women volunteers.The product tested was a cream containing 5% Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract and it was applied twice daily for 30 days. Silicon imprints were obtained pre-test and after 30 days. Analyses of the imprints were performed by confocal laser scanning microscopy to assess the evolution of the skin surface before and after the treatment. Skin topography images from the three dimensional reconstruction of optical sections are shown in the figure. The depth of the wrinkle decreased significantly, with maximum values between 50 and 60%.