GEM pro machine preview

Treating Elastosis in Post-Menapausal Skin

As women age, and go through menopause, they often find the skin of the face has lost tone, and has become flaccid. This is because of the loss of hyaluronic acid, and natural breakdown of collagen and elastin in the extrinsically-aged skin. Among the many factors that contribute to this are hormonal changes, dehydration, and exposure to sunlight and UV radiation (which we can observe from the age-spots on the patient’s face). In fact, elastosis is the primary consequence of photo-aged skin. When the patient pulls on the skin, it is unlikely to bounce back to its original place, and this shows the decreased elasticity.

For the patient experiencing elastosis, flaccid and inelastic skin is the result of years of UV exposure,and dehydration. Daily regimen has very much to do with the patient’s current condition. By over-exfoliating the skin regularly, but not moisturizing enough, she is pulling moisture out of the skin, which is already dehydrated. The patient needs to include hyaluronic-acid and peptide based serums and crèmes into her regimen, as well as avoid the sun, and remember to apply sunscreen every 2-3 hours.

Thank you for making our Products Award Winners AGAIN!

On behalf of the whole SAIAN Skin Care team and our lab, we would like to thank you all for making our product an award-winner 7 years in a row! 2nd year in a row winning LNE's prestigious BEST OF THE BEST AWARD! Last year we won for our Acne Spot Treatment, and this year, our Strawberry Cleanser took the honor!

Let's Talk About Discoloration

Many women deal with the unsightly issue of dark spots/hyperpigmentation on their face and hands. I like to believe that with the right care, these spots can be diminished, and even dissipate for good! As we know, discoloration is a common result of sun damage caused by tanning, and opting not to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen. Sometimes, the sun's rays bring up melanin to the surface after laser hair removal treatments, chemical peels, or prolonged birth control use. The good news, is that discoloration and hyperpigmentation may still be treated effectively if it is fresher than 5 years!

Now, you will probably wonder how in the world to select a great product - there are so many on the market! Presently, the professional skin care industry is finally making the move from the traditional hydroquinone brighteners towards a more natural, non-toxic, and non-habit-forming ingredients.What product to use, and how to make a good choice? The most effective products on the market that address the issue of discoloration and hyperpigmentation are: Kojic acid -as an exfoliator, and Tyrostatine, and Alpha Arbutin as active whitening agents in leave-on serums, and creams. These are the ingredients used in the SAIAN Antihyperpigmentation complex.

Of course, it needs to be noted that the best season for these brightening treatments is winter, because the client needs to avoid excessive sunlight, and tanning. Furthermore, the exfoliation needs to be done in the evening, only. Since this issue requires daily attention, don't expect to see immediate results- typically, a cycle of 28 days is needed to document substantial changes in the discoloration patches!

3 Wintertime Skincare Treatments to Get TODAY!

Many women suffer from skin problems, varicose veins, and unsightly hair, but are unsure when the best time is to get treatments. Here are 3 treatments to get today, while we are still in the cold, winter months:

1) Sclerotherapy (Varicose Vein Treatment)

Varicose veins are a big issue for women of all ages, but are more prominent after pregnancy, and with age.  In fact, by the age of 50, 2 out of 3 American women have to deal with them! These veins are characterized by their puffed purple appearance, and can swell up, causing discomfort. For the most part, women opt for sclerotherapy merely because of its cosmetic benefits. Although in the past, the best treatment for varicose veins was surgery, image-guided injection with depressurization is now effective in even the most difficult cases. I advise this treatment to be performed in the wintertime because the patient is required to wear compression panty-hose post-treatment. Winter is the perfect time to wear these stockings, because they tend to be so hot, and uncomfortable in the summer months! Especially in California!

2) Laser Hair Removal

How does getting rid of that unsightly leg fuzz sound? If you are ready to commit to a package of 6 to 12 treatments with a laser, forget about tanning for the entire duration of the treatment. Laser hair removal is typically performed in intervals of 4 to 5 weeks, so a package of 6 will take you months to complete. Keep it safe, and save the hair removal for winter, and even then, don't forget your sunscreen!

3) Hyperpigmentation/ Melasma Treatment

As an experienced esthetician, I always advise patients to wait until winter for skin-lightening treatments. Hyperpigmentation treatments typically expose the skin, and exfoliate it, making it susceptible to more sun-exposure, and further damage, so it's best to wait until winter to whiten and brighten!

Rocasea - Treatment and Daily Care

I often hear people say "I have rosacea" without giving much thought to the accuracy of the statement. Many of us believe that rosacea is an absolutely normal state, and it is not treatable. 

Sometimes, babies are born with very red cheeks, and the doctor doesn't give it much thought, even though it is an obvious red flag signifying allergies in the body. In a small child, red cheeks may flare up from over consumption of citrus fruit, or strawberries. This may later lead to complications, such as the development of bumps on the upper arms, and poor digestion. Remember, we must never ignore any of our body's symptoms, including rosacea. Symptoms, such as allergic reactions, are a sign that our body is struggling, and needs our help. Timely treatment of these symptoms will help you reduce redness on the face, and calm the fire that is ignited by allergens within the gut.

Rosacea is essentially redness caused by breaking capillaries, (couperose skin) but present as a chronic condition. Usually we see rosacea on the cheeks, and sometimes on the nose. Sometimes this redness can be accompanied by postules and blemishes. these can be quite sensitive and painful. For topical treatment, we must remember to shield the face from exposure to wind, sun, and extreme temperatures (hot or cold). This also applies to daily cleansing - ABSOLUTELY no hot showers, hot baths or steaming the face. A knowledgeable esthetician will not use a steamer on her couperose client. 

I don't recommend using acids, or products containing alcohol for cleansing the face. These particular products dry out the face, and tighten it, when our goal is to moisturize and nourish. Avoid using scrub to exfoliate the face - only light enzymatic masks are OK. The perfect mask for the rosacea client is SAIAN Enzyme Mask - it cools down the redness, and effectively cleans and brightens the face. This product has received praise from skin care professionals worldwide for its amazing rosacea results. 

The most important step in rosacea care is moisturizing - first step is to apply SAIAN® Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum, and second step is to apply SAIAN® Hyaluronic Acid Creme. Hyaluronic acid is not the acid that burns and dries the skin (like AHA, Glycolic, Salicylic, Lactic, Pyruvic, Mandelic, Kojic)  but one that soothes and hydrates. Hyaluronic acid is the base of most facial fillers such as Restylane® and JUVÉDERM®. It has amazing anti-aging properties, as well! 

To complete the daily skincare regimen, the rosacea patient needs to use sunscreen daily. I repeat, DAILY. This is regardless of season, since the sun shines on us every day of the year. I recommend SAIAN® Sunscreen Mist SPF 29, and SAIAN® Green Tea Sunblock SPF 30  both of which are non-comedogenic, and non-toxic. Remember to choose a sunscreen, such as these, with physical blocks like Zinc and Titanium dioxide, as opposed to chemicals which will enter the bloodstream and cause long-term damage in the long run.

As for internal treatment, the best way to reduce flare-ups is by avoiding all hot and spicy foods that cause the rush of blood to the face, breaking more capillaries. It may seem like a hard task to some people, but it will be much harder trying to camouflage the redness from day to day with cake make-up. There is nothing better than the freedom of letting your skin breethe without make-up!

Hopefully this post has been of help.
If this is a problem you have been struggling with, I'd like you try these simple suggestions, and document your progress!

Professionals, don't miss this opportunity to take free workshop classes with Certification at the Orlando DAYSPA congress!

New Year's Resolutions

Now is the perfect time to make some New Year's resolutions (for those of us who can't stop anything cold turkey on Jan 1st.) I work in the Health and Beauty industry, and I always get asked what are some key foods and products we must avoid in order to look radiant, youthful and healthy. To be honest, with all the chemicals and preservatives out there, it is definitely easier to list the wholesome products we SHOULD consume... but for starters, why not eliminate 5 simple items from your diet such as:

1. Salt
2. Sugar
3. All Frozen, Processed, and Canned foods
4. Soda, any kind of juices (pre-packaged juices that are not physically juiced in front of you) sports drinks, caramel macchiatos with whip cream from Starbucks, etc. Those are just empty sugar calories mixed with coloring... and no nutritional value whatsoever.
5. Cigarettes (if you smoke)

And add 1 bottle of water to your daily regime. It should be either distilled water, or Alkaline water (Kangen water)

Just this small change will make you feel light, more energized, and more happy!

Try it today!

Clean Skin is Healthy Skin!

Good morning! Did everyone get a good night's rest? There is no better feeling than waking up feeling fresh, clean, and well-rested. Sometimes I am so exhausted in the evening, that I lie down on my bed to read a book, only to accidentally fall asleep! If I wake up at night, and notice I am still wearing mascara, I wash it off, and go back to bed.

 With that said - I'd like to remind everyone that the most important step in a skin care regimen is adequate daily cleansing. No matter how tired you are after work, or after a party, washing your make-up off should never be an option. Oils, dust, sweat, foundation, and various other make-up clog our pores and prevent the skin from breathing. Furthermore, not washing off eye make-up can cause millia to build up under the eyes, and we all know how difficult it is to get rid of it.

Remember to always cleanse the face before applying any serums or cremes to obtain the full benefits. If the pores are clogged, and there is oil on the skin, the products will never absorb, and you will not see any results! My favorite cleanser is SAIAN Strawberry Cleanser, which is gentle and foamy, and easily removes all make-up without drying the face. It doesn't cause the eyes to tear, and is perfect for sensitive skin!

Help SAIAN LLC raise funds for the Leukemia Lymphoma Society

"Mis" - Treatments

Last night I had a body-scrub and massage at one of my favorite LA spas, but this time (strangely enough) the experience wasn't as pleasant as usual. High-end spas usually charge top-dollar for body treatments, and employ well-qualified, seasoned, experienced massage and bodywork specialists. One assumes that the personnel of more opulent spas is better than the average... but sometimes massage technicians make simple mistakes that are very easily caught by a professional, such as yours truly. 

I have noticed that it is becoming harder and harder for me to receive treatments, the more knowledgeable I become - i.e. it is hard to fall asleep during a facial massage, because I am aware of all the wrong movements. Here are some obvious no-no's therapists can commit, which make them look unprofessional, and make the treatment a lot more "Ugh" than "Omm".

1. Engaging in conversation is always discouraged, unless the client starts talking herself. Most of us come to receive a facial, or a body treatment to relax and unwind, so the last thing we want to do is talk. I absolutely do not feel like explaining to a stranger what I do for a living, do I have a boyfriend or not, etc.

2. Sanitation, sanitation, sanitation! This is the most important, and sacred of all spa routines. Your therapist needs to change linens between clients, disinfect all implements (in a proper State-Board approved manner), and keep the room tidy. Disposables need to be thrown away after every use (duh!) and that includes those body-scrubbing mitts they use to polish the body. I always make sure to request a new scrubbing mitt, or I don't get the service. It costs the spa less than $1, so it is really not that big of a deal, and they better not complain to you when you request it!

3. Speaking of mitts... I was shocked when the woman scrubbing me from the toes to neck (in that particular order) proceeded to use the same scrubbing mitt on my face! Here is just common knowledge everyone should be aware of when doing a full body scrub:

• Use a new mitt for every client.
• Start with the face, and only then do the rest of the body (imagine that the mitt has already been on the heels and toes of the feet... everywhere between the toes and the neck (um)... and then on the FACE!)

4.  Don't get beat up at a massage - I promise, it shouldn't hurt as bad as it does when an untrained therapist does it. A good massage therapist starts slowly and methodically working into the muscles, and doesn't initially pound and shake like a maniac. The woman doing my massage was jumping from one area to another, digging in with her fingers, making the experience very uncomfortable. A good technician will let the client know when to breathe out, to get a better stretch into the muscle, and ease tension. A good massage should have a logical pattern on the body - you should not lie there and be played like a xylophone! Not to mention double the discomfort when the woman massaging you doesn't have her fingernails trimmed short. No, thank you.

In short, there are many things which can go wrong and spoil your moment of relaxation, but once you have found a great masseuse, you will never have to worry! Personally, I am always on a quest for wonderful treatments - sometimes it is a hit, sometimes a miss, every time a learning experience!

Marine Ingredients - Beauty from the Sea

What new marine-based ingredients have been harvested, and what properties do these new ingredients possess? 

• Algae extracts, such as Agarum Cribosum and Laminaria, are rich in protein, amino acids, 106 vitamins and minerals essential to skin care and well-being, and have anti-aging and slimming properties.
• Marine Collagen is popular in Japan in nutricosmetics and beauty. Marine Collagen Astraxanthin is an emerging antioxidant found in tropical red seaweed, salmon flesh, and the shells of shrimp and crabs. It has anti-aging properties - improving the skin's elasticity and tone, and reducing fine lines and wrinkles.

Which established ingredients have withstood the test of time, and what new discoveries have been made about them?

Marine Collagen is a form of collagen that derived from an assortment of sea algae species Laminaria and Padina (and, every now and then, Codfish). This Marine Collagen Polypeptide is designed to stimulate type III Collagen deep down within the skin. Collagen is a large molecule that alone cannot penetrate into the skin - so scientists found that polypeptide technology can actually stimulate the synthesis Marine Collagen in the skin. This new technology allows the skin to open up and allow the collagen through, because the regular molecule is too large to get in. Combination of marine collagen with polypeptide technology, will help our skin by

• stimulating collagen production, and elastin collagen thickening
• encouraging skin renewal and minimizing muscle contractions
• reducing the appearance of deep wrinkles and fine lines
• helping provide long-term improvements in deeper wrinkles
• helping prevent collagen and elastin breakdown to firm the skin

This is the principle behind SAIAN Collagen Infusion Therapy- natural, safe, and effective for clients of all ages! It can be performed by cosmetologists and estheticians without any additional medical licenses. Certification available with SAIAN workshop classes. Check our website's calendar section for full class schedule in your state.

ACNE - Correct home treatment with clinical strength products.

Acne is one of the hardest skin problems to treat topically, so when we come across new products, we are often skeptical as to their effectiveness. The typical acne patient has tried "everything" on the market, starting from drugstore brands, to the infamous infomercial brands, to the expensive brands recommended by his or her dermatologist. 

The best clinical acne products are formulated with no chemicals, propylene glycols, parabens, and absolutely no benzoyl peroxide. When you read the facts on these popular ingredients, you will be shocked at how dangerous they can be, especially for the younger clients. Of course, it all depends on the percentage of the ingredient in the formula, but when you think about all the personal care products we use daily on our face and body - it all adds up to quite a bit.

On the other hand, you can choose an alternative to harsh chemical-filled skin care products, by using an all-natural, results-oriented clinical brand.When a client first comes to see his or her esthetician for an intensive SAIAN acne facial, he or she will see results right away - up to a 75% reduction of blemishes on the treated area after the first visit! The products in the SAIAN acne line contains only active ingredients to treat break-outs, kill germs and bacteria, and calm down inflammation. SAIAN is 100% vegan, with no artificial fragrance and no artificial color, and hypoallergenic.This is the perfect line for achieving the best results in the spa, and med-spa setting.

Let's not forget that all etheticians are like doctors for their clients-this is essentially how our line was developed. We wanted to give estheticians an easy and painless way to treat their clients in the treatment room, and also send them home with products to improve and maintain their skin between visits. To see real results, the acne clients HAS to purchase products, and do his or her homework daily! This is imperative for the client's well being, and will create a good relationship between client and esthetician. The best way to start the client on an at-home routine, is with the SAIAN Acne Try-Me Kit, which is affordable, and will last about 3 weeks. This product is based on Salicylic Acid, Bentonite Clay, Seaweed Extracts, Camphor, Sulphur, Magnesium, Iron Oxide, and Oxygen Plasma.  The results after only a couple of days of use are unbelievable! The blemishes are reduces, dried up, and the redness is gone. 

I often have professionals asking me this question: 

-"My client's acne is gone! Her skin looks amazing, but she feels dry! What is she supposed to do now?"

Good question. Well, think about it - when you get sick with the flu, you go to the store and buy medicine. Let's say you take the medicine every 4-6 hours for 2 days straight, and on the third day you wake up... and Ahhhh! What a relief! No runny nose, no headache, and you're not coughing anymore! Do you keep taking your flu medicine?

The same goes for clinical strength skin care products. When your client doesn't have a break-out, why use "medicine"? You should advise him or her to switch cleansers (SAIAN Strawberry Cleanser is a great foamy clenaser that won't dry out the skin) and use the SAIAN Acne Spot Treatment from the kit on any individual blemishes that may still have lingered. It is also a good idea to exfoliate 3 times a week with SAIAN Enzyme Mask, to get rid of any dry skin, and cleanse the pores. If he or she still feels dry - the best two moisturizers are SAIAN Amethyste Replenishing Creme and SAIAN Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum (DAYSPA Magazine's Editor's Choice for 2010)!

Creative New Enzyme Treatment from Dori in Florida!

Hello Dasha and Margarita,

Greetings from Florida. I'm very excited and I wanted to let you know about the results I have been getting with the Saian enzyme mask. Instead of mixing it with water, I have been mixing it with organic honey and about 1 to 2 drops (no more) of water. It has a very tacky consistency, and I apply it with my fingers to the face. Once applied, I massage it into the skin, and the stickiness of it with massage (particularly tapotement) over wrinkles and blemishes really helps to "lift" them out. Yes, it is very sticky, and this honey-lift massage does a good job of toning the facial muscles. After massaging for a few minutes, I proceed with steam for about 7-8 more minutes, and remove with hot towels. Then I follow with the Saian galvanic lifting treatment. This combination is a beautiful lifting treatment, and boosts the effectiveness of the enzyme mask. The skin is deeply cleaned, lifted and moisturized. My clients love it, and so do I. Please let me know what you think of this--and if you decide to try it, I would like to hear your opinion.

Have a happy, healthy day,

Dori

Caring For the Neck, Face and Décolleté

The face, neck and décolleté are exposed to the sun, wind and cold weather, and must be all cared for in the same way as the face during the professional treatment and at home. The bust is covered with clothes – this is why it has beautiful silky skin, free of sun damage. Did you know that the neck (and of course the hands) are a sure sign of a woman’s real age?

The delicate neck and décolleté area is often ignored when it comes to application of moisturizers and sunscreen, and is easily susceptible to dehydration and sun damage.

The signs of aging in the neck area is because our muscles lose elasticity – so we have to learn to firm and tone the muscles to hold the skin nice and tight. As we age, the neck and jowls may start to show horizontal wrinkles and folds and begin to droop because of the daily gravitational pull. This, of course causes the face to look much older than it may look otherwise.

The reason for wrinkles on the neck and bust is often sleeping on high pillows, and sleeping on the side – causing lines and wrinkles between the breasts and on the neck.

Most of us take very good care of our face, but often ignore the neck, décolleté and bust. Taking care of the neck and décolleté is no different than taking care of the face. To achieve a lifting effect, estheticians should start the cleansing and exfoliation routine upwards from the décolleté and continue to the face. At home, one should cleanse that whole area with cleanser daily, and exfoliate with scrub or enzyme mask once in three days. This is the only way to achieve an even transition in color and texture from the bust to the face.

In addition to timely exfoliation, the neck should be protected from the harsh rays of the sun with clothing and sunscreen. The décolleté and neck must always be hydrated with a great moisturizer.

A wonderful way to prevent sagging and wrinkles in the neck and décolleté area is to do special exercises which train the muscles in that area to be firm and lifted. Stretching the neck and spine upward - reduces the likelihood of getting a short and wrinkled neck. These exercises are even more effective when paired with contrast showers – hot and cold. It is best to end your shower with cold water – this way, the neck and décolleté will get a nice toning workout. Wherever the icy cold water hits, the muscles will tighten up and tone.

The best way to prevent wrinkles on the neck, décolleté and bust is to sleep on your back without a pillow, or with a flat pillow. To firm, tone and lift the bust, it is very important to do special exercises daily.

PRODUCTS

I don’t like to use body products on the neck and décolleté, because that area is as delicate as the face. I definitely do not recommend harsh body scrubs and heavy oils. A “body” product may be fine for the rest of the body, but the neck and décolleté definitely deserve the same treatment as the face!

One of the best treatments for the neck, décolleté and bust area is Collagen Infusion, using Hyaluronic Ampoules, Collagen Elastin Liquid, Peptides and a Pure Collagen Freeze Dried Mask. This treatment immediately plumps up the area, and reduces dryness and wrinkles. This can be done as a separate treatment or in combination with the Collagen Infusion for the face. As a take-home treatment, it is best to recommend your client a natural Hyaluronic Acid neck-firming crème, and a washable bandage to wear over it – preventing and softening wrinkles, and counteracting the gravitational pull. It’s like a bra for that area!

Натуральные Маски из Тыквы! Домашние Рецепты.

• Маска из тыквы для зрелой кожи лица.

Тыкву очистите от кожуры, после чего натрите на терке. Кашица из натертой на мелкой терке тыквы и отжатый из нее сок используются как тонизирующее средство по уходу за любой кожей. Соком пропитывают тонкий слой ваты, кашицу наносят на марлевую салфетку или непосредственно на лицо. Продолжительность маски - 15-20 минут, частота процедур - 2-3 раза в неделю. Курс - 15-20 масок. Они питают, витаминизируют, увлажняют и очищают кожу лица.

• Маска из тыквы для любой кожи лица.

К кашице из 2-3 столовых ложек вареной тыквы прибавить яичный желток и чайную ложку меда. Маску нанести на лицо теплой, через 10-15 минут смыть прохладной водой. Перед нанесением маски следует наложить на лицо горячий компресс (на 2-3 минуты). Кожа становится свежей и красивой.

• Маска для сухой кожи

2 столовые ложки вареной тыквы хорошо взбить и смешать со столовой ложкой оливкового, миндального или другого растительного масла. Нанести на лицо на 20 минут, а затем вымыть его прохладной водой.

• Эмульсия из сырых семян тыквы для ухода за кожей лица.

Семена очистить от кожуры, растереть в ступке, влить воду в соотношении 1:10 до получения однородной массы. Полученной эмульсией смазать лицо и через 10-15 минут смыть теплой водой. Такая процедура придает коже лица свежесть и нежность.

• Маска для сухой кожи со сливками.

Взять 30-40 г тыквы, нарезать кусочками залить 0,5 стаканом жидких сливок или молока проварить в течении 10 минут, образовавшуюся массу в теплом виде нанести на кожу лица и шеи. Через 25-30 минут смыть теплой водой.

Reward Your Clients' Loyalty - Margarita Saian for SKIN DEEP Magazine March/April 2010 p.8

Look for this wonderful article by SAIAN founder Ms.Margarita Saian in this month's Skin Deep magazine on p8.

New Ways to Reward Clients 

Q. I used to send product samples home with my clients, but the economy has forced me to cut back. I’m not sure how to keep rewarding their loyalty. Ideas? 

A. Even in difficult times, you can make your clients happy on a small budget. First, try to work with companies that will supply you with promotional materials from time to time, such as brochures, DVDs, fliers, posters, and complimentary samples. Work with brands that will send representatives to your spa to do product demonstrations and presentations for your staff and clientele. Education is your best tool for retailing products and it builds brand confidence with your clients.

      A wonderful way to promote products without handing out complimentary samples is to have an event where your clients can sample products and bring their friends. To relax your guests, consider including free 15-minute massages by one of your spa’s therapists. The therapist can also invite his or her clientele to experience the skin care side of the event. Your invitations should mention coupons, drawings, massage, product testing, and snacks. Keep your budget in line by serving light veggie snacks, pastries, and tea.

      Set up a table with jars of product, and have the manufacturer’s representative take volunteers from among your guests for demonstrations. Pass test jars around so everyone can smell and feel the products.

Also consider changes to your routine for regular clients to keep them from getting bored. Integrate new products into treatments and give them paraffin hand dips and scalp massage (as allowed in your state). Do these without creating new expectations by mentioning it’s a special offering for that week or month.

      Building a good relationship with your clients is the most important way to succeed without spending a lot of money. Your integrity, intentions, and caring will keep clients coming back because of you, not the free goodies. 

A wonderful way to promote products without handing out complimentary samples is to have an event where your clients can sample products and bring their friends.

 

Margarita Saian, state-certified educator and ambassador of the Aesthetic International Association, has been in the skin care industry for more than 20 years. She has studied esthetics and mesotherapy in both the U.S. and France, and has been featured in KTLA5 News, as well as in trade magazines such as DERMASCOPE, Skin Inc, DAYSPA, Medesthetics and Les Nouvelles Esthetiques. Ms. Saian is a licensed esthetician, CMA/cardiac technician, national certified phlebotomy technician, certified ECG and the founder of SAIAN natural clinical skin care.

Arnica Montana - Nature's Healer

We all know that aloe vera is soothing and cooling, and chamomile is relaxing, but did you know about Arnica? This amazing medicinal herb has been taken internally in Europe for centuries to heal organ trauma, and applied topically to reduce swelling, treat bruises, wounds and bug bites.

It has anti-inflammatory properties, and is mild and non-agressive in topical skin care products. What is really amazing, is Arnica's ability to reduce bruising - the mechanism in lies in the herb's ability to stimulate blood flow and move stagnition through the veins and capillaries. When a lesion of capillaries is traumatized by physical impact, or inflamed from exposure to the harsh elements, we see the dark color on the skin's surface. Applying an Arnica gel to the area significantly reduces the swelling and dark patch, and brings the color back to normal, as well as moves blood through the damaged capillaries for reduced discomfort and pain.

One of the most amazing masks which I have ever tried is the SAIAN Restoring Mask enriched with Arnica. This happens to be my personal favorite because of the formula being so pure and clean. It is almost edible, in fact it looks and smells almost tempting enough to eat! (It seems pretty logical given that research from the Archives of Facial and Plastic Surgery shows that when arnica is taken orally before surgery it reduces inflammation and reduces bruising!)  This topical gel does wonders on broken capillaries, inflamed skin, and dark under-eye circles. Did you know that under-eye circles are types of bruises, as well? They are formed by the same mechanism - clusters of broken capillaries which look dark under the skin, and give a dull and restless appearance on our faces. In addition to  Arnica, SAIAN Restoring Mask packs a powerful combination of vegan Hyaluronic Acid, Copper Peptide Complex, Aloe Vera, Cucumber Extract and Sage! This mask really is amazing, and I recommend it to everyone. Just 15 minutes will transform your skin!

Pseudoaltera...what?

The newest advances in anti-aging skin care suggest that peptides are the way to go, and all recent evidence points to it being true. To review, a peptide is a molecule consisting of 2 or more amino acids. Peptides have brand names and INCI names such as dipeptides, tripeptides, tetrapeptides, octopeptides, and so on - depending on the number of amino acids they contain.
When used in clinical skin care products, peptides:

• Support the healing and repair response.
• Aid in increased skin thickness.
• Refine the appearance of wrinkles.
• Even skin texture and tone.

Most of us have become familiar with such potent wrinkle warriors as Argireline (INCI Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, formerly INCI Acetyl Hexapeptide-3), and Matrixyl-3000, but there is a new type of peptide on the market, and it is giving some amazing results.

During the Antarctic summer of 1988, a Spanish scientific expedition collected mud samples from the inlet Admiralty Bay, on King George Island, Antarctica. A new bacterial strain, Pseudoalteromonas Antarctica, was isolated from these samples and characterized. During growth, the bacteria produced an extracellular material, an exopolymer of glycoproteins believed to help the bacteria retain water, adhere to surfaces, and withstand the extreme cold. Its protective function in nature is applied in cosmetics to regenerate and protect the skin.

When used in clinical skin care products,such as SAIAN Amino-Lift Mask, and SAIAN Tri-Active Collagen Serum, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract:

• Helps the skin retain water.
• Presents a cryoprotective effect due to its ability to modify the morphology of ice crystals.
• Stimulates fibroblast adhesion and keratinocyte growth, regenerating tissues and enabling a faster healing of wounds.
• Increases collagen type I and IV, as well as elastin, resulting in a restructured skin and a reduction in wrinkles.
• Reduces the depth of expression wrinkles, especially in the forehead and around the eyes.

An in vitro skin model composed of keratinocytes and fibroblasts was used to monitor the levels of Collagen I, Collagen IV and Elastin.

Collagen I increases 128% in 15 days
Collagen IV increases 81% in 15 days
Elastin levels increase 31% in 15 days

Skin topography analyses were performed by obtaining silicon imprints from around the eyes of 10 healthy women volunteers.The product tested was a cream containing 5% Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract and it was applied twice daily for 30 days. Silicon imprints were obtained pre-test and after 30 days. Analyses of the imprints were performed by confocal laser scanning microscopy to assess the evolution of the skin surface before and after the treatment. Skin topography images from the three dimensional reconstruction of optical sections are shown in the figure. The depth of the wrinkle decreased significantly, with maximum values between 50 and 60%.

Tomatoes - the delicious fountain of youth you always took for granted.

The summer heat is on, and what better way to quench your thirst than with a delicious fresh garden salad? And what salad can be without juicy sweet tomatoes? This delicious antioxidant fruit (often mistaken for a vegetable) does wonders for your health, and your skin!

Did you know that tomatoes are excellent blood purifiers, and the Nicotinic acid in tomatoes can help to reduce blood cholesterol (helping prevent heart disease)? In addition to that, tomatoes help decongest the liver (protecting it from cirrhosis). Vitamin K in tomatoes helps to prevent hemorrhages, and large consumption of tomato can help improve skin texture and color. And of course, lycopene (the red pigment in tomato), is a powerful antioxidant that can also fight cancer cells. This is also an ingredient used in SAIAN Strawberry Cleanser (which was featured in this month's issue of DAYSPA Magazine on p.70.

Nutraceuticals World | January 1, 2009 Tomato lycopene complex offers skin benefits.(Research Highlights)(Clinical report) 

A recently completed double-blind, placebo-controlled study indicates that supplementation with Lyc-O-Mato tomato extract, from LycoRed, helps protect the skin against damage from UV radiation by reducing sunburn cell formation and protecting the skin's immune system by slowing down the depletion of Langerhans cells, following exposure to UVB/UVA solar simulator.

COPYRIGHT 2009 Rodman Publishing. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)

The use of tomato for skin care is ideal because of its cooling and astringent properties. It is rich in vitamin C making it helpful for acne and brightening dull skin and contains vitamin A needed for building healthy skin. Its naturally acidic properties help it balance the skin and get rid of excessive oil.

In the heat of summer, it is easy to get sunburned - fortunately this easy recipe will cool irritation and remove sunburn. Simply add 2 tsp tomato juice to 1/2 cup of plain yogurt. Apply it all over your skin. Wash it off after keeping it for 1/2 hour.

I recommend purchasing organic tomatoes from your local growers, whenever possible, or better yet - planting them yourself! Growing your own herbs, fruits and vegetables is a rewarding process that will yield natural produce without pesticides or hormones. Beautiful tomato plants are available at Trader Joe's starting this week (for under $5!) I picked one up, and placed it on my balcony! Can't wait until they ripen!